Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>> Check the Friends of Indian Creek website for up-to-date information, as well as the BLM's Monticello Field Office page. The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Battle of the Bulge Buttress in the afternoon with...

Description 

This area is around the corner from Donnelly Canyon and generally faces the road (just over 4 miles past Newspaper Rock). It tends to be less crowded (just barely) than Supercrack Buttress since most climbs here are slightly more difficult.

Good climbs at this wall include its name sake, Big Baby, Crack Attack and many more. Nearly every climb at this wall is superb.

Getting There 

Parking can be had either at the major parking lot at the mouth of Donnelly Canyon or a few hundred feet further down the road on the opposite side of the cliff. If you are parking further down the road, there is a cairn that marks the beginning of one approach the takes you to roughly the center of the wall. The trail from the major lot puts you at the south (right as you face it) end of the wall.

The Classics

Featured Route For Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Crack Attack 5.11-  UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

As you face the cliff, this route is towards the left end. Keep walking left until you see a non-generic crack with a small A-shaped roof almost half way up the line. You won't miss it - it's striking. This crack starts wide, goes to fist-large hands in a flaring slot, hits the small roof and then leads to less than favorable sizes until you reach the anchor ledge. The business above the roof is mainly a steep section with thin hands to rattly ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT