Sam Lightner entering the chimney on the first pit...
Description
This route follows the dihedral system on the sw corner of the tower. A strong party could easily get the first free ascent.
Pitch One - Climb up and across a huge fallen block to the base of an obvious chimney formed by another huge block and the tower. Continue up the chimney to a large belay ledge and a two bolt anchor. There is little to no protection on this pitch but it is fairly easy. 5.8 PG13
Pitch Two. This is a long pitch. Climb the sandy crack in the corner up and through a bombay chimney passing a bolt. Above the roof, the angle eases and the crack gets wide. Belay at the ledge on the corner of the tower. 5.11, C0
Pitch Three - This pitch is shared with the original Olevsky route. Climb cracks up the outside corner of the main tower, traverse left across a ledge and continue up a short crack to a low angle face that takes you to the top.
Location
See map on the Hell Roaring Canyon page.
Protection
Double set of cams to #3 Camalot Set of medium to large nuts A couple large cams
A Dispute: I was under the opinion that in honor of the heroine of Harry Potter, we were going to call this "Hermione Grangers Hatchet Wound" or "Hermione Grangers Lucky Broom", but Mr. Brandewie apparently veto-ed. This sad excuse of a name stems from bat who fell out of the crack (as Matt climbed past him) and only unfolded one wing, thus spun his way to the belay ledge and into the chimney. Thats a lousy way to wake up from a 3 month sleep.
First off all, Brad says "a strong party could easily get the first free ascent of this route." The thing is, I totally agree with him, as long as they are capable of freeing such roof cracks as Brother From Another Planet, found at the Fin wall at Indian creek. Very similar. Enjoy.
Next, yes a bat was thrown from the bowels of the wide, second pitch. But, the route climbs a wide, continuous crack, very similar to our original name: "Hermione Granger's Hatchet Wound." But Wings of Leather is still proud...
The bat thing was pretty weird. It fell for what seemed like 10 seconds before we realized what it was. It had crawled into another crack by the time we left the belay.
I only say that a strong party could get it free becasue you almost got it onsight while throwing big rocks out of the crack as you went and drilling above your head with the heaviest drill on the planet.
The next stud that heads up there will get a much cleaner crack, an overhead bolt for the roof moves, and the knowledge that it has been done before.
I hear ya Brad. Thanks for the props. After describing the movements and nature of the route to Ben, he decided it sounded like it is a simple 5.7+ layback problem.
...maybe "sand in Sam's hatchet wound"... I think it is strating to sounds like a jingle!
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