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 ADVANCED
The Titan

Select Route:
Finger of Fate 
Gimp Warfare T 
jade gate T 
Sundevil Chimney 
World's End 

The Titan  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.71745, -109.29955 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 127,681
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jun 20, 2002
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Description 

The Titan is the largest of the Fisher Towers, and the largest free standing tower in the United States. The Titan was also the first tower in the Fishers to be cimbed. Layton Kor's ascent of the Finger of Fate was the subject of an article in National Geographic, and the climb is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Harvey Carter, not to be outdone, added the incredible plumb line Sundevil Chimney, and later harder routes were added by Jim Beyer, Walt Shipley, and Duane Raleigh among others. Stevie Haston made an impressive attempt to free the Finger of Fate, but still had to resort to a few moves of aid - so the Titan is still awaiting a FFA.

Update - Stevie Haston has apparently freed the Sundevil Chimney at 5.13 This is pretty mind blowing - if the Titan can be freed probably any tower can.

Getting There 

Walk along the trail until at the base of the Titan. Sundevil Chimney is the first route reached. To reach the Finger of Fate, keep traversing around the base until it is possible to scramble up on ledges.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.7 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Titan:
Finger of Fate   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2     Aid, Grade V   
Sundevil Chimney   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3     Aid, Grade VI   
World's End   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 X     Aid, Grade VI   
Browse More Classics in The Titan

Featured Route For The Titan
Top of pitch 2

World's End 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 X  UT : Moab Area : ... : The Titan
This fantastic nailing route is on the South Face of the Titan 50 or so feet to the right of the Sundevil Chimney.P1- This pitch is steep and intimidating. It looks much harder than it is. Just a steep thin crack with lots of pretty good stopper placements. Climb to a hanging belay. (A2) P2- Climb up shallow corners and cracks. Traverse left to a right facing corner. When the corner switches to left facing, traverse left again via hooks and some thin pins to a good three bolt belay. (A3+)P...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Titan Slideshow Add Photo
The Titan
The Titan
Here is the doctored photoshop version!  I like it...
Here is the doctored photoshop version! I like it...
Scenic views off the Titan. Photo: Bob Horan
Scenic views off the Titan. Photo: Bob Horan
Titan
Titan
In all it's morning alpenglory.
In all it's morning alpenglory.
BETA PHOTO
The Titan
The Titan
Titan
Titan
Sunset on The Titan from Fantasia (The Oracle)
Sunset on The Titan from Fantasia (The Oracle)
The Titan
BETA PHOTO: The Titan
Sunrise
Sunrise
The Titan from the Mystery Towers
BETA PHOTO: The Titan from the Mystery Towers
silhouette of the titan in all its glory...
silhouette of the titan in all its glory...
Sunset on the Titan
Sunset on the Titan
This is a tower.
This is a tower.
The Titan in winter
The Titan in winter
Panoramic shot...
Panoramic shot...
Bob Horan dusting off the Titan.
Bob Horan dusting off the Titan.
Morning sun
Morning sun

Comments on The Titan Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 21, 2004
The Titan is featured in the latest Alpinist Magazine (#8). Blurbs by first ascent parties, lots of cool route photos. Almost makes me want to climb the thing again.
By coloradotomontana
Oct 18, 2010
To whoever left the coors light on the summit: I drank it. Thank you, kind sir.
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Apr 21, 2013
Time to update the intro!

Stevie did the FFA of Sundevil, 5.13 X, in 2002. Ben Bransby and Pete Robins freed Finger of Fate, March 2005. Finger of Fate free, 5.12, has also been repeated by Jason Haas (April 2011) and Will Stanhope (April 2013).
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 22, 2013
Want to rewrite the Titan page Crusher? You'd d it much better justice than i did.
By Joe Forrester
From: Ft. Collins, CO
May 14, 2014
To the person who left two chunks of wet carpet at the base of the titan out in the pines. Pick up your crap. If you drop gear from something, take the time to try and recover it. I hiked your shitty carpet/belay seat out and threw it out.