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Routes in Castleton Tower
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Arrowhead, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Black Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Inside T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Discrete Start to Black Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Hollowpoint T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ivory Tower, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Kor-Ingalls Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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No Other Options V1 5 |
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North Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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North Face Original Pitch 1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sacred Ground T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Stardust Cowboy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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West Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Ed Webster & Buck Norden 1979 |
| Page Views: | 47,688 total · 169/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Oct 25, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010.
Details
Utah Open Lands utahopenlands.org owns the primitive area historically used by climbers camping near Castleton Tower.
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website. utahopenlands.org
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website. utahopenlands.org
Description
I've done this route a couple of times, the last time on New years eve just before the millenium. To reach, hike up to the base of Castleton and traverse left until you are directly below the North Face.
P1- Climb a perfect wide hands crack in a right facing dihedral to a thin lieback on white calcite up higher. Then climb up ledges to the belay ledge. (5.11b)
P2- Climb a very nice handcrack past a short wide section to nice ledge and the belay anchors. (5.10)
P3- Climb up nice wider cracks to the summit.
Descent: see topo.
On the summit, walk toward the Rectory to find the N. Face Rappel station (long chains with 4-inch rings) nestled between two boulders on the taller side of the North Face.
All directions are described for a rappeler (rappeler’s left, etc.)
With 2x60 m or 2x70 m (2 raps):
- Rap straight down about 125 ft to a large ledge with rappel rings on its left and a boulder on its right.
- Rap past another ledge with an anchor on its right side to the ground (225 ft with 2x70 m) or to a platform (200 ft with 2x60 m). The obvious flaring #3’s corner of the N. Face starts from the left side of the platform. Downclimb a chimney on the right side of the platform about 20 ft to the ground.
With a single 70 m (4 raps)
- Rap 40 ft hard left following the bolt line of the last pitch of Sacred Ground. You may need to walk or pull yourself left across the ledge to get to the chains.
- Rap 90 ft slightly right to a large ledge with rappel rings on its left and a boulder on its right.
- Rap to another good ledge with an anchor on its right side (90 ft).
- Rap 110 ft to a platform. The obvious flaring #3’s corner of N. Face starts from the left side of the platform. Downclimb a chimney on the right side of the platform about 20 ft to the ground.
With a single 80 m (3 raps)
- Rap straight down about 130 ft to a large ledge with rappel rings on its left and a boulder on its right. This used all of my 80 m rope.
- Rap to another good ledge with an anchor on its right side (90 ft).
- Rap 110 ft to a platform. The obvious flaring #3’s corner of the N. Face starts from the left side of the platform. Downclimb a chimney on the right side of the platform about 20 ft to the ground. (Or, try to rap straight to a boulder above the ground depending on your 80 m).
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