Virgin Wool ascends the south flank of the tower to the bedding seam, then traverses to a corner system that is followed to the top. To truly summit you have to traverse across the summit ridge and then back for the rappels. P1 = Climb the slab using friction and climber-made moki steps. These steps are the result of years of banging pins into drilled holes and then extracting them on that ascent... not a good idea for the rock. It has now been bolted so that this is no longer needed. It is very soft. At the bulge there are a couple of sketchy C1 moves that might also go a 5.11. A fall would not be far, but would leave a nasty mark as you would slab-out. Continue on to the ledge. This is a 55 meter pitch P2 = traverse in a hand size crack (C1) around to the east face of the tower and a nice ledge.... a 20 meter pitch. P3 = the Ewetopian Crack. Follow a beautiful thin crack up the face just left of the corner. I found good placements the whole way, but I often top-stepped to get them. This is one of the finest aid pitches in Arches. Its C2 and about 45 meters in length. P4 = Follow a finger and hand size crack to the bulge, then move through the bulge on a pin and some thin wires. This is strenuous and the rock deteriorates a bit. A fall would be ugly because of the slab. If you have a wide, piece, it will help you transition into a few free moves. At the top use a pin, and edge, and maybe some manky gear, to pull onto the summit ridge. THis pitch is 20 meters long and C2+/5.10-. P5 = walk across the ridge to the summit knob. You can feed a cordolette through the holes to protect you on the 5.4 move onto the summit. Reverse it to the rappel anchors. This pitch is 30 meters. Rap the route on 1/2 bolts and brown chain placed by the Arches Task Force in March of 2007. Please try not to add webbing to the route as it is visible from the highway.
Protection
Quick draws, slings for bolts. Three sets of friends up to 3.5, then 1 each of 4 and 5. A few micro pieces are handy. The Ewtopian Crack gobbles up lots of small to mid size offsets... bring lots. A cordolette is needed at the top for slinging the huecos.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Apr 25, 2007
I am glad to hear that the first pitch has been "fixed" up.....we ( Dave Evans, Cyndie Bransford , Margy Floyd and I ) did this climb in March of 1991, and I lead the first pitch , and it was soft and funky;....I remember placing a few pins and such;... Dave followed and did NOT bother with a hammer, as he could remove ALL the pins easily with his hands. This climb is really all about pitch 3, which (rats!) Dave got;...it's a wonderful long pitch of fairly good rock and good placements;...fast, fun, and fairly easy. The rest of the climb aint' no big thing. The summit, as you can image, is fantastic. What a great formation!
Cordolette is not really needed for the summit moves. Big hand sized cams are found all around this short little step to the top. Great route!
By Bill Bones From: Somwheres in ooohtaaa Oct 21, 2009
4 pitches is all it is. 2 long pitches and 2 short. make sure to bring lots of small offset nuts and yellow and blue TCUS and/or green Aliens. 3 to 4 for the utopian pitch upper part. Rad route.
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