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Maple Canyon


6 people found this page useful
Submitted By: Harvey Miller on May 4, 2004
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Latitude: 39.5564  Longitude: -111.6867 
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Pipeline


Description 

"Cobble climbing"—Maple Canyon is conglomerate rock with embedded, rounded clasts ranging in size from pebbles to boulders.

The walls have a wide range of holds from bombers to slopers, making the climbing unique and challenging. Mostly sport climbing with a very little trad.

Camping is available in Maple Canyon for $8 per night. Maple lies mostly on public land within the Uinta National Forest, but some of the most popular climbs are in privately-owned Box Canyon. There is a day use fee of $3 per car in the national forest area.

Nearest beer is in Nephi.


Getting There 

Exit 225 on I-I5 (Nephi 100 N exit). East on UT Route 132 to Fountain Green. Right on 400 South. Six miles to Freedom Road, turn right. Right again on Maple Canyon Road. Follow the paved road to the dirt.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maple Canyon:
The Great Chasm   5.7     Sport, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Middle Fork : The Great Chasm
Zen Fen   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Right Fork : Zen Garden
Minienticer   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Right Fork : The Minimum Crag
Meet the Buddha   5.10a     Sport, 60 feet   Right Fork : Zen Garden
Big Kahuna   5.10b     Sport, 30 feet   Maple Canyon Road : Schoolroom Area
Dry Spunk   5.11c     Sport, 85 feet   Right Fork : The Pipe Dream
The Angry Inch   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Left Fork : The Pipeline
Pipeline   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Left Fork : The Pipeline
Le Spunk   5.11d     Sport, 60 feet   Right Fork : The Pipe Dream
Zoaster Toaster   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Right Fork : The Minimum Crag
49   5.12a     Sport, 80 feet   Right Fork : The Minimum Crag
Lunchables   5.12-     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Right Fork : The Minimum Crag
Dry Times   5.12b     Sport, 90 feet   Right Fork : The Pipe Dream
The Big Calm   5.12b     Sport, 80 feet   Right Fork : The Minimum Crag
Orgasmo   5.12c     Sport, 90 feet   Right Fork : The Pipe Dream
Space Lord   5.12c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Right Fork : The Minimum Crag
Rucksack Wanderer   5.12d     Sport   Right Fork : The Pipe Dream
Predator   5.12d     Sport, 40 feet   Left Fork : The Pipeline
Sprout   5.13a     Sport, 90 feet   Right Fork : The Pipe Dream
The Great Feast   5.13c/d     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 95 feet   Right Fork : The Pipe Dream
Browse More Classics in Maple Canyon

Featured Route For Maple Canyon
Mcrae Williams nearing the top of the first pitch

Exit Wound 5.9+  UT : Maple Canyon : ... : Haji Rock
P1: Locate a bolt line on the east side of the formation which starts up an easy arete. The arete gets steeper and eventually turns into a small tower. Two-chain belay at the top of the tower, 30m.P2: Stem or fall across the "Gap of Flatulence" to regain the main formation. Climb up 2 or 3 bolts to a big ledge ("Camp blessing") and walk around the boulder to a two-bolt belay.P3: Climb up a steep section (.9+) past 4 bolts to ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Maple Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
The bend in the road!

The bend in the road!

Looking down toward the Pipline area!

Looking down toward the Pipline area!

Fall colors at the Orangutan Wall

Fall colors at the Orangutan Wall

Say hello to the turkeys!

Say hello to the turkeys!

I think this is Rock Island

I think this is Rock Island

Searching for the next hold (and bolt!) among the cobbles...ENDURANCE is the name of the game at Maple Canyon.

Searching for the next hold (and bolt!) among the ...

Mmmm... Maple, Ken Trout on the cobbles.

Mmmm... Maple, Ken Trout on the cobbles.

More turkeys at Maple...

More turkeys at Maple...

sick

sick

does anybody have information about this route just outside (west) of box canyon ... near a fire pit maybe 12b ?

does anybody have information about this route jus...

the margharita roof is a bouldering cave just around the corner from the pipedream.  nice for both the boulderer and sport climber looking to enjoy more of maple

the margharita roof is a bouldering cave just arou...

Main road and campground

BETA PHOTO: Main road and campground

If all the numbered sites are taken -- site "F" might be free

BETA PHOTO: If all the numbered sites are taken -- site "F" mi...


Comments on Maple Canyon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 16, 2009
By Bryson Slothower
May 19, 2006

what's the ideal season at Maple?

By Joey Faust
From: Lindon, UT
Jun 21, 2006

It is now $8 a night to camp. Still $3 for day use.

By Chris Archer
Jun 27, 2006

Early May through mid October is the season. April is climbable if you don't mind postholing.

By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
Jul 6, 2006

good guide here

www.drtopo.com

http://www.drtopo.com/utah/maple.pdf

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Sep 11, 2006

Anyone have anything on the oxygen wall or the demascus wall?

By freddy k
From: Denver, CO
May 2, 2007

Is Maple comparable to Rifle, I'm making an extended trip to Rifle and was thinking about spending a few 'rest' days here. Does anyone know how long it takes in trip time from Rifle to Maple?

Cheers
mw

By Rick Miske
From: Orem, UT
Nov 11, 2007

According to the Forest Service and ReserveAmerica, the Campground Host is there only every three days or so. Last time I was there the pay envelopes were all gone and the pay tube was empty.

The group site is nice.

By courtney.vogt
From: Frisco, Colorado
Feb 8, 2008

is Maple Canyon "dog-friendly"? I saw something about Box Canyon being off limit to dogs because it's privately owned. How about the other areas?

and in response to mw: i would expect a 7 hour trip from Rifle to Maple. I know it takes 8 from Summit County, CO.

By Ben Folsom
From: Sandy, Utah
Feb 8, 2008

Yes, Maple canyon is dog friendly, other than the Box canyon which is private property. My dog really likes it there, but I guess he likes everywhere we go!

By DaveB
Apr 1, 2008

Why are there so many flies here? (Not biting, just annoying house/sh*t flies...) Do they migrate up into the canyon from the turkey farms? Seasonal? (We were there a couple days in August.)

By Sean Egli
From: Provo Utah
May 18, 2008

Anyone know where some moderate climbing routes up Maple Canyon are?Away from Box Canyon?Around 5.6 to 5.10 A-C?Last time I went I got spanked and I'm desperately in need for a good day of fun climbing.Is the gate open yet also?

By Ryan Palo
From: Portland, oregon
Jun 20, 2008

Maple in July? Too hot? I was there at the end of last June. The temps outside the canyon were in the 90s-low 100s. Inside the canyon was quite nice in the shade. Can I expect the same?

By jason gerrard
Mar 23, 2009

i was working a climb up the left hand fork that i can't find in any books or on this site. i think it is one of the last climbs up that fork. it is on the left hand side, on a wall that is way overhung. does anybody know what the climb farthest to the right is rated?

By Thayne aka TR
From: provo utah
May 10, 2009

We just got back from maple (family trip) It was really busy in the school room all ready.

Climbing was great and it was super warm in the day (pretty cold at night still, bring your own wood) the climbing was great and it could not have been better, we met nic, nicole, jimmy and crystal and they are some super climbers. We cooked them dinner (Cheeseburgers) and had smores for desert! We spent all day in the school room as my sons love to climb and bolder I can't wait to get back down there for some more climbing and boldering!

I noticed a lot of trash around bouldering area's lets all try to pack in more then we bring in and please please don't leave bananna peels or apple cores.

LEAVE NO TRACE!!!

By Nathan Van Horn
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 16, 2009

no banana peels or apple cores????? are they not from the earth? should they not return to the earth? And i don't mean in a plastic bag......

By Lauren D. Hollingsworth
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 8, 2009

Just got back from a trip to Maple. My husband and I ate at Roy's Pizza in Ephraim on a rest day and WOW! I was really impressed by this small-town pizza joint. The ingredients were fresh with a homemade taste. $15-20 for a large pizza, on the left side of HWY 89 coming from the canyon.

By the way: beware of the squirrels both at the crag and the campground. They will run off with your food, tear up bags containing food, and they are capable of chewing through plastic peanut butter jars.

By Rossy B.
Sep 23, 2009

If this is on National Forest land, shouldn't there be some free camping somewhere? So where is this free camping?

By mike cork
From: Atlanta, GA
Oct 13, 2009

Hey - a buddy and I are headed out this way in a week and plan to do a day or two at Maple Canyon. A few first timer questions:

1) given our limited time, what 2 or 3 crags would be ideal to check out this time of year for the 5.11-5.12 climber? Anything that gets decent sun?

2) any recommended lodging in the area? we'll be flying into SLC in the evening and need a place to stay semi-near Maple.

3) food/drink...any nearby joints that we should check out? From Maple we're headed SE to do some tower climbing.

4) if you're a local and plan to be in the area, it'd be cool to meet up for a day of craggin...

Thanks,
Mike

By Deibolt
From: Bolder, CO
Nov 16, 2009

When do the gates close for the season? I thought I read some where that they close around this time.
Im temporarily living in SLC for 3 weeks (now into first week of DEC). If anyone wants to brave some colder temps and climb in Maple I am down, whenever, and willing to drive.

By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 16, 2009

There are no gates.

What shuts the place down for non-4wd vehicles (which should also apply to subarus, but, folks don't learn) is snow.

So, no snow, easy drive in.

Nearby lodging? Try Nephi or Ephraim. Most folks camp in Maple Canyon.

For dining, there's some diners in both of the above. Pretty limited.