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The Dry Wall
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11a, The 
5.11 
Graffiti Patient 
Grushenka 
Its Right to be Frank 
JJ Memorial 
Left Be Frank 
Pit, The 
Precious, The 
Stop that Train 
Way Hammered 
Wicked Bender 

Wicked Bender 

5.13b

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 55 feet
Season: southeast facing-5500 ft elevation
Views: 104 page views

Submitted By: bheller on Jul 3, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: Lonnie Kauk redpointing his 2nd attempt of Wicked ...


Description 

A fun, hard route! Technical climbing, great sequences, and hard pulls on shallow pockets characterized this great route. Feels like multiple boulder problems with a couple of marginal shakes. The lower section is a little sandy, but the orange stone at the top is beautiful- the climbing and the rock color are reminicint of the Churning Buttress routes at Smith Rocks. High tech kneebar action seems to be the ticket for the boulder problem off the ground.


Location 

Climbs out the left side of the low Dry wall cave. Merges at the top to share anchors with the JJ memorial route, which climbs 6 feet or so to the left.


Protection 

Bolts... about 7... lower off the chains. Stick clip the high first bolt.



Photos of Wicked Bender Slideshow Add Photo
Lonnie Kauk sending the last move on Wicked Bender

BETA PHOTO: Lonnie Kauk sending the last move on Wicked Bender

Lonnie Kauk navigating his way through Wicked Bender

Lonnie Kauk navigating his way through Wicked Bend...

Lonnie Kauk getting lowered off Wicked Bender

Lonnie Kauk getting lowered off Wicked Bender

Lonnie Kauk

Lonnie Kauk


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By steve edwards
Sep 15, 2009
rating: 5.13b

No knee bars for me but it's a size thing. Very good route.