Velvet Jones 

FA:  ??? (F.R.A.TDA & Shane Durfee 1996) Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  2 pitches, 250 feet Views: 88 page views Submitted By: TP in SLC on May 23, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Rob on Velvet Jones at the first gear placement

Description 

P1-The climb starts off at about 5.7 clipping a few bolts leading to the corner. After the first step where a bolt ladder (My Generation) breaks out right, stay in the corner the crux is about 2/3 up the pitch where it steepens up.( I remember liebacking) and ends at a good ledge and anchor. 5.9+

P2- is quite a bit easier and stays in the corner for about 65 feet to the top of the wall. 5.6-ish

This route was probably done long ago. When TDA first walked up there he found a couple of soft iron pitons lying in the sand at the base. One which was fixed on the route to the right (My Generation) and held at least one whipper!

Location 

The big east facing corner is Velvet Jones. A walk off to the north wrapping back east will get you down. There might be a top anchor for rapping.

Great warm up for choss climbing.

Protection 

A full rack to #4 camalot is nice. Slings helpful.