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DescriptionWelcome to Utah, home to some of the best climbing in the United States. Whether you like the ultra-difficult limestone in American Fork Canyon and Logan Canyon, the world-famous sandstone splitters and towers of the deserts, or the impeccable granite of Little Cottonwood Canyon, we have a place for you to climb. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utah:
North Chimney 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Pentapitch 5.8 Trad Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid) 5.8 C1 Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
Prodigal Sun 5.8 C2 Aid, 9 pitches, 900 feet, Grade V Zion National Park : Angel's Landing
The Coffin 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress
Kor-Ingalls Route 5.9 Trad, Grade III Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Sasquatch 5.9+ Trad Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
Generic Crack 5.9+ Trad Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon
Mexican Crack 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress
Jah Man 5.10 Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
Stolen Chimney 5.10 Trad Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
Supercrack of the Desert 5.10 Trad Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Goodro's Wall 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island
Incredible Hand Crack 5.10c Trad Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Fine Jade 5.11a Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III Castle Valley : The Rectory
Lightning Bolt Cracks 5.11- Trad, Grade III Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak
North Face 5.11b Trad, Grade III Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Scarface 5.11 Trad Indian Creek : Scarface
Primrose Dihedrals 5.11+ Trad, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV Island In The Sky : Moses
King Cat 5.11+ Trad Indian Creek : Cat Wall
News and Events For Utah
Featured Route For Utah
Quarter of a Man 5.12- UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...
The best corner on a wall with countless superb corners. Just left of Black Corner, this climb is extremely hand-size dependent...it is at just that point where many people can get tight hand jams (i.e. feels 5.11ish) while others will need to lieback forever (thus 5.12-). There are a few rests on this one, so be on the lookout for features to stem to. Milk the high rest for all its worth because the crux section begins just afterwards. ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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