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Utah
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Utah


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Latitude: 39.0960  Longitude: -111.8850 
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Double Arch-Arches N.P.
Photo by Blitzo.



Description 

Welcome to Utah, home to some of the best climbing in the United States. Whether you like the ultra-difficult limestone in American Fork Canyon and Logan Canyon, the world-famous sandstone splitters and towers of the deserts, or the impeccable granite of Little Cottonwood Canyon, we have a place for you to climb.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utah:
North Chimney   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Pentapitch   5.8     Trad   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid)   5.8 C1     Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V   Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
Prodigal Sun   5.8 C2     Aid, 9 pitches, 900 feet, Grade V   Zion National Park : Angel's Landing
The Coffin   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress
Kor-Ingalls Route   5.9     Trad, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Sasquatch   5.9+     Trad   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
Generic Crack   5.9+     Trad   Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon
Mexican Crack   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress
Jah Man   5.10     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II   Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
Stolen Chimney   5.10     Trad   Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
Supercrack of the Desert   5.10     Trad   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Goodro's Wall   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch   Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island
Incredible Hand Crack   5.10c     Trad   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Fine Jade   5.11a     Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III   Castle Valley : The Rectory
Lightning Bolt Cracks   5.11-     Trad, Grade III   Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak
North Face   5.11b     Trad, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Scarface   5.11     Trad   Indian Creek : Scarface
Primrose Dihedrals   5.11+     Trad, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV   Island In The Sky : Moses
King Cat   5.11+     Trad   Indian Creek : Cat Wall
Browse More Classics in Utah

News and Events For Utah

Featured Route For Utah
Quarter of a Man, Battle of the Bulge Buttress, Indian Creek.

Quarter of a Man 5.12-  UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...
The best corner on a wall with countless superb corners. Just left of Black Corner, this climb is extremely hand-size dependent...it is at just that point where many people can get tight hand jams (i.e. feels 5.11ish) while others will need to lieback forever (thus 5.12-). There are a few rests on this one, so be on the lookout for features to stem to. Milk the high rest for all its worth because the crux section begins just afterwards. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Utah Slideshow Add Photo
Cliffs near Moab.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Cliffs near Moab.
Photo by Blitzo.


Aspens-Autumn.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Aspens-Autumn.
Photo by Blitzo.


Morman Temple-Salt Lake City.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Morman Temple-Salt Lake City.
Photo by Blitzo.


Dead tree and Skyline Arch-Arches.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Dead tree and Skyline Arch-Arches.
Photo by Blitzo...


Bryce Canyon National Park.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Bryce Canyon National Park.
Photo by Blitzo.




Climbing the 11d at Echo. this is the crux, the other 60 feet is pretty good, but not very good rests.

Climbing the 11d at Echo. this is the crux, the ot...

Canyon Country.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Canyon Country.
Photo by Blitzo.


Flooded Salt Flats on Hwy. 80.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Flooded Salt Flats on Hwy. 80.
Photo by Blitzo.


Some prime Utah real estate.  Better get it while it lasts

Some prime Utah real estate. Better get it while ...

Somewhere in Utah.

Somewhere in Utah.

White-out in the Wasatch back country!

White-out in the Wasatch back country!

Overlooking Mt. Olympus with SLC covered in clouds.

Overlooking Mt. Olympus with SLC covered in clouds...

San Rafael Swell

San Rafael Swell

This is Scott rapping into the Golden Cathedral, the last rappel in Neon Canyon.  Photo by me.

This is Scott rapping into the Golden Cathedral, t...

Chasing down an obscure tower lead on the Green

Chasing down an obscure tower lead on the Green

Beautiful colors and hoodoo spires of Bryce Canyon.

Beautiful colors and hoodoo spires of Bryce Canyon...

At the base of elusive Green River Towers...

BETA PHOTO: At the base of elusive Green River Towers...

Another view of Green River Towers...

Another view of Green River Towers...

1st good camp and climbing you come to...

1st good camp and climbing you come to...

Delicate Arch, Arches National Park

Delicate Arch, Arches National Park

Bryce Canyon, Utah.  Taken on a 12 mile loop hike, don't remember which one.  Early 1990's.  Scan of print.

Bryce Canyon, Utah. Taken on a 12 mile loop hike,...

The high spur.Robbers Roost, UT.

The high spur.Robbers Roost, UT.

More High Spur.

More High Spur.

Crack bouldering around Moab, photo: Bob Horan Collection

Crack bouldering around Moab, photo: Bob Horan Col...

Climb on Eastern Reef Slabs ,San Rafael Swell

Climb on Eastern Reef Slabs ,San Rafael Swell

Summit of Ozimandias .San Rafael Swell

Summit of Ozimandias .San Rafael Swell

Looking South along the Eastern Reef Slabs. San Rafael Swell. The climbs on these formations are up to 2000' in lenth. Photo Patrick Moe

BETA PHOTO: Looking South along the Eastern Reef Slabs. San Ra...

Climbers on the summit of Dreamcatcher Tower on the first ascent. Arch Canyon.Photo Andy Ross

Climbers on the summit of Dreamcatcher Tower on th...

near moab

near moab

High altitude sport climbing in the Uinta Mountains.

High altitude sport climbing in the Uinta Mountain...


Comments on Utah Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris Kalous
Dec 7, 2008

From the Redds of Indian Creek 12/07/08...

...As you know, one of our dogs is missing from the Dugout Ranch (aka Indian Creek area). Please forward this email to anyone who may be able to help.

"Jack" is a female Kelpie/Boxer cross, with distinctive black and white markings and a couple brown spots on her cheek. (pictures attached) She is a very sweet, affectionate and friendly dog who went missing shortly before Thanksgiving. Jack's brother was picked up by a female rock climber on 11/23 and was TAKEN to Moab. This climber kept our dog for a week before reporting it to the Humane Society, where I finally tracked him down on 12/3.

Jack is unfortunately still missing. She was wearing a brown leather collar with a brass nameplate riveted to it that clearly stated she lives at Dugout Ranch, along with all our contact information.

If anyone has any information at all, or someone in town has s dog matching her description, please contact us at this email or leave a message at 435-459-0018. Feel free to email if you have any questions or need more information.

Also, I thought you should know this is not the first time this has happened. Perhaps if we can get the word out, this type of thing will happen less frequently. I am planning to post flyers at the kiosks down here as well.

Please advise people: If you see a "stray" dog at Indian Creek, bring it to the ranch to ask before you make any assumptions. The bottom line: you are climbing and camping on private and leased property, where these dogs live and work daily. Please have some common sense. Our dogs are very friendly and will not forgo attention! Because they let you pet them (or feed them!) does not mean they are strays.


Thank you,
Melinda & Adam Redd
melindaredd@yahoo.com

By Fred Knapp
Mar 10, 2009

INDIAN CREEK: A Climbing Guide, 2nd edition. The new Creek book is at the printer and will be available late April. In the meantime, if you're in a rush, Sharp End Publishing (www.sharpendbooks.com) is offering an ebook version, as well as a special: If you pre-purchase the print book, you'll receive a free ebook.

By Dean Hoffman
Apr 16, 2009

Anyone up by the creek and have an eye on the weather?