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Utah
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Utah 


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Location: 40.6566, -111.7697 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
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Double Arch-Arches N.P.
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Welcome to Utah, home to some of the best climbing in the United States. Whether you like the ultra-difficult limestone in American Fork Canyon and Logan, the world-famous sandstone splitters and towers of the deserts, or the impeccable granite of Little Cottonwood Canyon, we have a place for you to climb.


8,352 Total Routes


['4 Stars',739],['3 Stars',3103],['2 Stars',3089],['1 Star',1195],['Bomb',59]
['<=5.6',377],['5.7',417],['5.8',673],['5.9',950],['5.10',2102],['5.11',1620],['5.12',801],['5.13',182],['>=5.14',18],['',0],['<=V1',158],['V2-3',411],['V4-5',210],['V6-7',145],['V8-9',76],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',42],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utah:
Steorts' Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag
North Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Pentapitch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1     Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 1200'   Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
Kor-Ingalls Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
The Coffin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress
Flakes of Wrath   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR   Potash Road : Wall Street
Generic Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon
Sasquatch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
Mexican Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress
Blue Sun   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Indian Creek : Way Rambo
Jah Man   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches   Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
Stolen Chimney   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
Supercrack of the Desert   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Goodro's Wall   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island
Incredible Hand Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Fine Jade   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   Castle Valley : The Rectory
Lightning Bolt Cracks   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Grade III   Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak
Scarface   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   Indian Creek : Scarface
The Moonlight Buttress (Free)   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 10 pitches, 1200'   Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
Browse More Classics in Utah

Featured Route For Utah
Dirk Tyler at the bulge on the 1st pitch of Lonely Vigil.

Lonely Vigil 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Lighthouse Tower
This excellent route is on the E side of the tower. The approach trail leads to the W face, so a short approach pitch must be climbed to get to the other side of the tower. Approach pitch- climb the loose corner to a good anchor in the notch on the south side of the tower (5.7R, 50ft).Walk along the base of the NE face of the tower and locate the obvious corner/chimney system on the right side of the face (just look for the chalk).Pitch 1- jam the hand crack through the bulge to an easy offwidt...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Utah Slideshow Add Photo
Golden Cathedral.  It is Hooooge. <br />Check out the three man tent near the 60ft.? trees.
Golden Cathedral. It is Hooooge.
Check out the th...
Overlooking Mt. Olympus with SLC covered in clouds.
Overlooking Mt. Olympus with SLC covered in clouds...
This is Scott rapping into the Golden Cathedral, the last rappel in Neon Canyon.  Photo by me.
This is Scott rapping into the Golden Cathedral, t...
Dead tree and Skyline Arch-Arches. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Dead tree and Skyline Arch-Arches.
Photo by Blitzo...
P.Ross climbing on Eastern Reef Slabs ,San Rafael Swell
P.Ross climbing on Eastern Reef Slabs ,San Rafael ...
Delicate Arch, Arches National Park
Delicate Arch, Arches National Park
The high spur.Robbers Roost, UT.
The high spur.Robbers Roost, UT.
Bryce Canyon National Park. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Bryce Canyon National Park.
Photo by Blitzo.
West Desert target practice for locals.
West Desert target practice for locals.
Aspens-Autumn. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Aspens-Autumn.
Photo by Blitzo.
At the base of elusive Green River Towers...
BETA PHOTO: At the base of elusive Green River Towers...
More High Spur.
More High Spur.
Hoodoos in Bryce National Park.
Hoodoos in Bryce National Park.
Hop Rising. Great beer in Utah! <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Hop Rising. Great beer in Utah!
Photo by Blitzo.
High altitude sport climbing in the Uinta Mountains.
High altitude sport climbing in the Uinta Mountain...
Bryce Canyon, Utah.  Taken on a 12 mile loop hike, don't remember which one.  Early 1990's.  Scan of print.
Bryce Canyon, Utah. Taken on a 12 mile loop hike,...
Awesome rock fall on the shoulder between Castleton and The Rectory
Awesome rock fall on the shoulder between Castleto...
Winter at Sunset Point in Bryce Canyon
Winter at Sunset Point in Bryce Canyon
Flooded Salt Flats on Hwy. 80. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Flooded Salt Flats on Hwy. 80.
Photo by Blitzo.
Another view of Green River Towers...
Another view of Green River Towers...
Somewhere in Utah.
Somewhere in Utah.
near moab
near moab
Summer Rainbow near Henrieville <br />Garfield County
Summer Rainbow near Henrieville
Garfield County
Climbers on the summit of Dreamcatcher Tower on the first ascent. Arch Canyon.Photo Andy Ross
Climbers on the summit of Dreamcatcher Tower on th...
Central Utah
Central Utah
Utah. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Utah.
Photo by Blitzo.
Looking South along the Eastern Reef Slabs. San Rafael Swell. The climbs on these formations are up to 2000' in lenth. Photo Patrick Moe
BETA PHOTO: Looking South along the Eastern Reef Slabs. San Ra...
White-out in the Wasatch back country!
White-out in the Wasatch back country!
Canyon Country. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Canyon Country.
Photo by Blitzo.
Cliffs near Moab. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Cliffs near Moab.
Photo by Blitzo.
Climbing the 11d at Echo. this is the crux, the other 60 feet is pretty good, but not very good rests.
Climbing the 11d at Echo. this is the crux, the ot...
Mormon Temple-Salt Lake City. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Mormon Temple-Salt Lake City.
Photo by Blitzo.
San Rafael Swell
San Rafael Swell
You never know what one will see in the West Desert. Saw this from the top of a virgin pitch when I turned around and looked down. Hope it's a dog...
You never know what one will see in the West Deser...
Some prime Utah real estate.  Better get it while it lasts
Some prime Utah real estate. Better get it while ...
Mackerel sky over Promise Rock <br />Garfield County
Mackerel sky over Promise Rock
Garfield County
Beautiful colors and hoodoo spires of Bryce Canyon.
Beautiful colors and hoodoo spires of Bryce Canyon...
Tower I did the FA of with Mike Baker back in 1991. We are on the summit.
Tower I did the FA of with Mike Baker back in 1991...
Chasing down an obscure tower lead on the Green
Chasing down an obscure tower lead on the Green
Forget bike lanes; this is what we have in Utah.
Forget bike lanes; this is what we have ...
The first ascent of Robs Wild Ride.
The first ascent of Robs Wild Ride.
Nate Brun at For Lease Canyon ut <br />v12
Nate Brun at For Lease Canyon ut
v12
Blue John Cyn
Blue John Cyn
1st good camp and climbing you come to...
1st good camp and climbing you come to...
Welcome to Utah. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Welcome to Utah.
Photo by Blitzo.
FA Rigor Mortis . Tombstone Butte.
FA Rigor Mortis . Tombstone Butte.
Summit of Ozimandias .San Rafael Swell <br />First Ascent
Summit of Ozimandias .San Rafael Swell
First Ascen...
FA Rising Sons Tower .Family Butte. San Rafael Swell
FA Rising Sons Tower .Family Butte. San Rafael Swe...
Crack bouldering around Moab, photo: Bob Horan Collection
Crack bouldering around Moab, photo: Bob Horan Col...
East Face of the 800' Texas Tower,Texas Canyon . Utah
East Face of the 800' Texas Tower,Texas Canyon . U...
Comments on Utah Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris Kalous
Dec 7, 2008

From the Redds of Indian Creek 12/07/08...

...As you know, one of our dogs is missing from the Dugout Ranch (aka Indian Creek area). Please forward this email to anyone who may be able to help.

"Jack" is a female Kelpie/Boxer cross, with distinctive black and white markings and a couple brown spots on her cheek. (pictures attached) She is a very sweet, affectionate and friendly dog who went missing shortly before Thanksgiving. Jack's brother was picked up by a female rock climber on 11/23 and was TAKEN to Moab. This climber kept our dog for a week before reporting it to the Humane Society, where I finally tracked him down on 12/3.

Jack is unfortunately still missing. She was wearing a brown leather collar with a brass nameplate riveted to it that clearly stated she lives at Dugout Ranch, along with all our contact information.

If anyone has any information at all, or someone in town has s dog matching her description, please contact us at this email or leave a message at 435-459-0018. Feel free to email if you have any questions or need more information.

Also, I thought you should know this is not the first time this has happened. Perhaps if we can get the word out, this type of thing will happen less frequently. I am planning to post flyers at the kiosks down here as well.

Please advise people: If you see a "stray" dog at Indian Creek, bring it to the ranch to ask before you make any assumptions. The bottom line: you are climbing and camping on private and leased property, where these dogs live and work daily. Please have some common sense. Our dogs are very friendly and will not forgo attention! Because they let you pet them (or feed them!) does not mean they are strays.


Thank you,
Melinda & Adam Redd
melindaredd@yahoo.com

By Fred Knapp
Mar 10, 2009

Everyone thinking of visiting the canyon country should first read DESERT TOWERS: Fat Cat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock by Steve "Crusher" Bartlett. The book is now (10-1-10) on the shelves at fine mountain shops and available at www.sharpendbooks.com. It is the quintessential coffee table book of the history of desert tower climbing.

By Roy Suggett
Sep 9, 2010

Just outside the Bryce Canyon National Park area there is a new climbing area known as "The Jungle on the Aquarius Plateau." Check it out for great routes and lots of possibilities for more. As of Aug, 1st, 2014, there are 114 routes up ranging from 6s to 13s with something in each range. We could use some help putting up more!

By Calvino
From: Madison, WI
Oct 29, 2011

Heads up.

I had my car broken into at Chuckawalla Wall in St. George Yesterday 20/28/11. My trad rack was stolen as well as a red Rab shell, and a brown OR puffy with Zion Adventure Company Embroidered on it. My girlfriend had her luggage stolen with her purse, all her clothing, jewelry, bike gear, etc.

It never feels good to be violated in this way, and I want to offer a warning to be careful at some of these remote trailheads.

I am posting a list of what was stolen separately, but if anyone sees this equipment turn up please contact me. All my gear has purple duct tape, or purple paint on it.

By DaniMarie
May 10, 2013

I'm selling a bouldering guide to Utah (black bible). Still in good condition.
Email me if interested!

dmari_11@hotmail.com

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 4, 2013

My friend and i recently took a trip from our home state of New Hampshire out to Utah, mostly to check out Maple Canyon but we also hit American Fork... here is a little video of our adventures :)