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Axe Handle Canyon 
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Stansbury Mountains 
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Vernal Area 
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Zion National Park 

Utah 


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Double Arch-Arches N.P.
Photo by Blitzo.


Description 

Welcome to Utah, home to some of the best climbing in the United States. Whether you like the ultra-difficult limestone in American Fork Canyon and Logan, the world-famous sandstone splitters and towers of the deserts, or the impeccable granite of Little Cottonwood Canyon, we have a place for you to climb.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utah:
North Chimney   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Pentapitch   5.8     Trad   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid)   5.8 C1     Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V   Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
The Coffin   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress
Kor-Ingalls Route   5.9     Trad, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Generic Crack   5.9+     Trad   Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon
Mexican Crack   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress
Blue Sun   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Indian Creek : Way Rambo
Supercrack of the Desert   5.10     Trad, 3 pitches   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Jah Man   5.10     Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II   Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
Stolen Chimney   5.10     Trad   Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
Incredible Hand Crack   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Fine Jade   5.11a     Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III   Castle Valley : The Rectory
Lightning Bolt Cracks   5.11-     Trad, Grade III   Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak
North Face   5.11b     Trad, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Scarface   5.11     Trad   Indian Creek : Scarface
Primrose Dihedrals   5.11+     Trad, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV   Island In The Sky : Moses
Coyne Crack   5.12a     Trad   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Way Rambo   5.12-     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Indian Creek : Way Rambo
The Moonlight Buttress (Free)   5.12d     Trad, 10 pitches, 1200 feet   Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
Browse More Classics in Utah

News and Events For Utah

Featured Route For Utah
Tony stretching towards the thin hands start to Pente

Pente 5.11-  UT : Moab Area : ... : Reservoir Wall
The first path leading to the wall puts you near this climb. Look for a large, I mean really large, detached block at the wall. Pente is the striking line just to the left as you face the wall. Look for a small alcove start with a crack on the right side (left facing), that pulls a small roof and leads to a small ledge. At this ledge, you should see some slings. The line then moves a few feet to the left to start the awesome and steep splitter. This section is mostly red camalot size with ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Utah Slideshow Add Photo
Cliffs near Moab. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Cliffs near Moab.
Photo by Blitzo.


Aspens-Autumn. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Aspens-Autumn.
Photo by Blitzo.


Mormon Temple-Salt Lake City. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Mormon Temple-Salt Lake City.
Photo by Blitzo.


Dead tree and Skyline Arch-Arches. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Dead tree and Skyline Arch-Arches.
Photo by Blitzo...


Bryce Canyon National Park. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Bryce Canyon National Park.
Photo by Blitzo.




Climbing the 11d at Echo. this is the crux, the other 60 feet is pretty good, but not very good rests.

Climbing the 11d at Echo. this is the crux, the ot...

Canyon Country. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Canyon Country.
Photo by Blitzo.


Flooded Salt Flats on Hwy. 80. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Flooded Salt Flats on Hwy. 80.
Photo by Blitzo.


Some prime Utah real estate.  Better get it while it lasts

Some prime Utah real estate. Better get it while ...

Somewhere in Utah.

Somewhere in Utah.

White-out in the Wasatch back country!

White-out in the Wasatch back country!

Overlooking Mt. Olympus with SLC covered in clouds.

Overlooking Mt. Olympus with SLC covered in clouds...

San Rafael Swell

San Rafael Swell

This is Scott rapping into the Golden Cathedral, the last rappel in Neon Canyon.  Photo by me.

This is Scott rapping into the Golden Cathedral, t...

Chasing down an obscure tower lead on the Green

Chasing down an obscure tower lead on the Green

Beautiful colors and hoodoo spires of Bryce Canyon.

Beautiful colors and hoodoo spires of Bryce Canyon...

At the base of elusive Green River Towers...

BETA PHOTO: At the base of elusive Green River Towers...

Another view of Green River Towers...

Another view of Green River Towers...

1st good camp and climbing you come to...

1st good camp and climbing you come to...

Delicate Arch, Arches National Park

Delicate Arch, Arches National Park

Bryce Canyon, Utah.  Taken on a 12 mile loop hike, don't remember which one.  Early 1990's.  Scan of print.

Bryce Canyon, Utah. Taken on a 12 mile loop hike,...

The high spur.Robbers Roost, UT.

The high spur.Robbers Roost, UT.

More High Spur.

More High Spur.

Crack bouldering around Moab, photo: Bob Horan Collection

Crack bouldering around Moab, photo: Bob Horan Col...

Climb on Eastern Reef Slabs ,San Rafael Swell

Climb on Eastern Reef Slabs ,San Rafael Swell

Summit of Ozimandias .San Rafael Swell

Summit of Ozimandias .San Rafael Swell

Looking South along the Eastern Reef Slabs. San Rafael Swell. The climbs on these formations are up to 2000' in lenth. Photo Patrick Moe

BETA PHOTO: Looking South along the Eastern Reef Slabs. San Ra...

Climbers on the summit of Dreamcatcher Tower on the first ascent. Arch Canyon.Photo Andy Ross

Climbers on the summit of Dreamcatcher Tower on th...

near moab

near moab

High altitude sport climbing in the Uinta Mountains.

High altitude sport climbing in the Uinta Mountain...

Hoodoos in Bryce National Park.

Hoodoos in Bryce National Park.

Winter at Sunset Point in Bryce Canyon

Winter at Sunset Point in Bryce Canyon

West Desert target practice for locals.

West Desert target practice for locals.

You never know what one will see in the West Desert. Saw this from the top of a virgin pitch when I turned around and looked down. Hope it's a dog...

You never know what one will see in the West Deser...

Hop Rising. Great beer in Utah! <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Hop Rising. Great beer in Utah!
Photo by Blitzo.


Awesome rock fall on the shoulder between Castleton and The Rectory

Awesome rock fall on the shoulder between Castleto...

Central Utah

Central Utah

The first ascent of Robs Wild Ride.

The first ascent of Robs Wild Ride.

Blue John Cyn

Blue John Cyn

Welcome to Utah. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Welcome to Utah.
Photo by Blitzo.


Utah. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Utah.
Photo by Blitzo.



Comments on Utah Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris Kalous
Dec 7, 2008

From the Redds of Indian Creek 12/07/08...

...As you know, one of our dogs is missing from the Dugout Ranch (aka Indian Creek area). Please forward this email to anyone who may be able to help.

"Jack" is a female Kelpie/Boxer cross, with distinctive black and white markings and a couple brown spots on her cheek. (pictures attached) She is a very sweet, affectionate and friendly dog who went missing shortly before Thanksgiving. Jack's brother was picked up by a female rock climber on 11/23 and was TAKEN to Moab. This climber kept our dog for a week before reporting it to the Humane Society, where I finally tracked him down on 12/3.

Jack is unfortunately still missing. She was wearing a brown leather collar with a brass nameplate riveted to it that clearly stated she lives at Dugout Ranch, along with all our contact information.

If anyone has any information at all, or someone in town has s dog matching her description, please contact us at this email or leave a message at 435-459-0018. Feel free to email if you have any questions or need more information.

Also, I thought you should know this is not the first time this has happened. Perhaps if we can get the word out, this type of thing will happen less frequently. I am planning to post flyers at the kiosks down here as well.

Please advise people: If you see a "stray" dog at Indian Creek, bring it to the ranch to ask before you make any assumptions. The bottom line: you are climbing and camping on private and leased property, where these dogs live and work daily. Please have some common sense. Our dogs are very friendly and will not forgo attention! Because they let you pet them (or feed them!) does not mean they are strays.


Thank you,
Melinda & Adam Redd
melindaredd@yahoo.com

By Fred Knapp
Mar 10, 2009

Everyone thinking of visiting the canyon country should first read DESERT TOWERS: Fat Cat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock by Steve "Crusher" Bartlett. The book is now (10-1-10) on the shelves at fine mountain shops and available at www.sharpendbooks.com. It is the quintessential coffee table book of the history of desert tower climbing.

By Dean Hoffman
Apr 16, 2009

Anyone up by the creek and have an eye on the weather?

By Roy Suggett
Sep 9, 2010

Just outside the Bryce Canyon National Park area there is a new climbing area known as "The Jungle on the Aquarias Plateau." Check it out for great routes and lots of possibities for more. As of 9/29/11 there are 45 routes up ranging from 8s to 13s with something in each range.

By Calvin Laatsch
From: Springdale, UT
Oct 29, 2011

Heads up.

I had my car broken into at Chuckawalla Wall in St. George Yesterday 20/28/11. My trad rack was stolen as well as a red Rab shell, and a brown OR puffy with Zion Adventure Company Embroidered on it. My girlfriend had her luggage stolen with her purse, all her clothing, jewelry, bike gear, etc.

It never feels good to be violated in this way, and I want to offer a warning to be careful at some of these remote trailheads.

I am posting a list of what was stolen separately, but if anyone sees this equipment turn up please contact me. All my gear has purple duct tape, or purple paint on it.