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DescriptionWelcome to Utah, home to some of the best climbing in the United States. Whether you like the ultra-difficult limestone in American Fork Canyon and Logan, the world-famous sandstone splitters and towers of the deserts, or the impeccable granite of Little Cottonwood Canyon, we have a place for you to climb. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utah:
North Chimney 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Pentapitch 5.8 Trad Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area
The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid) 5.8 C1 Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
The Coffin 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress
Kor-Ingalls Route 5.9 Trad, Grade III Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Generic Crack 5.9+ Trad Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon
Mexican Crack 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress
Blue Sun 5.10- Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Indian Creek : Way Rambo
Supercrack of the Desert 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Jah Man 5.10 Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
Stolen Chimney 5.10 Trad Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
Incredible Hand Crack 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Fine Jade 5.11a Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III Castle Valley : The Rectory
Lightning Bolt Cracks 5.11- Trad, Grade III Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak
North Face 5.11b Trad, Grade III Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Scarface 5.11 Trad Indian Creek : Scarface
Primrose Dihedrals 5.11+ Trad, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV Island In The Sky : Moses
Coyne Crack 5.12a Trad Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Way Rambo 5.12- Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Indian Creek : Way Rambo
The Moonlight Buttress (Free) 5.12d Trad, 10 pitches, 1200 feet Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress
News and Events For Utah
Featured Route For Utah
Pente 5.11- UT : Moab Area : ... : Reservoir Wall
The first path leading to the wall puts you near this climb. Look for a large, I mean really large, detached block at the wall. Pente is the striking line just to the left as you face the wall. Look for a small alcove start with a crack on the right side (left facing), that pulls a small roof and leads to a small ledge. At this ledge, you should see some slings. The line then moves a few feet to the left to start the awesome and steep splitter. This section is mostly red camalot size with ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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