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Utah Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airtime T 
Apex T 
Apex Right T 
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb T 
In The Pink T,S 
Lawyers, Guns, and Money T,S 
Right of the Roof T 
Shotgun T 
Shotgun (Variation) T,TR 
unknown (right most crack in the roof) T 
Unknown (TR) S 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed Dihedral T 
Utah Crack T 

Utah Wall 


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Elevation: 4,800'
Page Views: 6,966
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Robert 560 on Jun 7, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Utah Wall - Central Roof Area

Shows three climbs ...

Description 

There are really two areas here. The Utah Wall and The Upper Utah Wall. Very diverse climbing with both classic trad routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10 right alongside great sport routes. This is a must do area when visiting the canyon.


Getting There 

The Utah Wall is located .6 miles up the canyon from the waterfall. Park at the Hole In The Rock pullout located .8 miles up the canyon from the waterfall, then hike back down to the Utah Wall. It is up the second major gully on the south side of the road. Be very careful on the approach the first 150 yards are VERY steep with allot of loose rock. It would be much easier to get hurt on this approach then on the climbs.


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utah Wall:
Utah Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Shotgun   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Apex   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
In The Pink   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Shotgun (Variation)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   
Lawyers, Guns, and Money   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Airtime   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Utah Wall

Featured Route For Utah Wall
Shotgun 5.6 Utah Wall Ogden Canyon

Shotgun 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Utah Wall
The route follows a splitter crack into the highest corner of the roof. At the corner step out of the roof and ascend to the anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Utah Wall Add Comment
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By jeffozozo
From: huntsville, utah
Apr 20, 2010

As you walk down the road, trying not to get hit by the cars coming up the canyon, it is a little confusing to find. As a landmark, there is a sewer grate on your way down. Keep going past the grate, and then past a very narrow part of the road where the shoulder is almost non-existent.

The climbs don't start until you are a good way up the gully. Keep climbing the scree of death until you can see the obvious M-shaped roofs of 'In The Pink.'