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There are really two areas here. The Utah Wall and The Upper Utah Wall. Very diverse climbing with both classic trad routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10 right alongside great sport routes. This is a must do area when visiting the canyon.
The Utah Wall is located .6 miles up the canyon from the waterfall. Park at the Hole In The Rock pullout located .8 miles up the canyon from the waterfall, then hike back down to the Utah Wall. It is up the second major gully on the south side of the road. Be very careful on the approach the first 150 yards are VERY steep with allot of loose rock. It would be much easier to get hurt on this approach then on the climbs.
14 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Utah Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utah Wall:
Unknown (TR) 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Shotgun 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Utah Crack 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Apex 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
In The Pink 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Apex Right 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Shotgun (Variation) 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, TR
Lawyers, Guns, and Money 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Airtime 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Utah Wall
Apex 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Utah Wall
The route is directly to the left of Shotgun beginning it follows the discontinuous cracks and corner angling to the left and pulls the roof continuing to the right towards the anchors for Shotgun. There is a fixed pin that can be clipped when pulling the roof. The protection is a little tricky above the roof. A standard rack works fine the largest piece I used was a #3 C4. This route is a must do in Ogden Canyon. ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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