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Utah Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airtime 
Apex 
Apex Right 
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb 
In The Pink 
Lawyers, Guns, and Money 
Right of the Roof 
Shotgun 
Shotgun (Variation) 
unknown (right most crack in the roof) 
Unknown (TR) 
Unnamed 
Unnamed Dihedral 
Utah Crack 

Utah Wall 


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Elevation: 4,800'
Page Views: 6,283
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Robert 560 on Jun 7, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Utah Wall - Central Roof Area

Shows three climbs ...

Description 

There are really two areas here. The Utah Wall and The Upper Utah Wall. Very diverse climbing with both classic trad routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10 right alongside great sport routes. This is a must do area when visiting the canyon.


Getting There 

The Utah Wall is located .6 miles up the canyon from the waterfall. Park at the Hole In The Rock pullout located .8 miles up the canyon from the waterfall, then hike back down to the Utah Wall. It is up the second major gully on the south side of the road. Be very careful on the approach the first 150 yards are VERY steep with allot of loose rock. It would be much easier to get hurt on this approach then on the climbs.


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utah Wall:
Utah Crack   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Shotgun   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Apex   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
In The Pink   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Shotgun (Variation)   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR   
Lawyers, Guns, and Money   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Airtime   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Utah Wall

Featured Route For Utah Wall
Airtime is the smaller, upper/mid crack.  There's either a piton with a sling or a stuck cam (red webbing of sorts) in it, plus a stuck nut about 5ft above that. <br /> <br />M-37 is the larger, more prominent crack near the bottom.

Airtime 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Utah Wall
Really surprised that this one hasn't been added, as it is easily the best route on the Utah Wall and top tier as far as Ogden 5.10 trad routes go. Jeff Lowe originally led this for the FA when he was only 14 and rated it 5.8!This route is located on the North Ridge of Utah Wall. Approach by walking, following the spacious ledge, up and right (north) at the base of "Shotgun" and "Lawyers, Guns, and Money." Belay at a stance just before the arete. Lead up the arete through broken up ground to...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Utah Wall Add Comment
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By jeffozozo
From: huntsville, utah
Apr 20, 2010

As you walk down the road, trying not to get hit by the cars coming up the canyon, it is a little confusing to find. As a landmark, there is a sewer grate on your way down. Keep going past the grate, and then past a very narrow part of the road where the shoulder is almost non-existent.

The climbs don't start until you are a good way up the gully. Keep climbing the scree of death until you can see the obvious M-shaped roofs of 'In The Pink.'