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There are really two areas here. The Utah Wall and The Upper Utah Wall. Very diverse climbing with both classic trad routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10 right alongside great sport routes. This is a must do area when visiting the canyon.
The Utah Wall is located .6 miles up the canyon from the waterfall. Park at the Hole In The Rock pullout located .8 miles up the canyon from the waterfall, then hike back down to the Utah Wall. It is up the second major gully on the south side of the road. Be very careful on the approach the first 150 yards are VERY steep with allot of loose rock. It would be much easier to get hurt on this approach then on the climbs.
14 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utah Wall:
Utah Crack 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Shotgun 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Apex 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
In The Pink 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Shotgun (Variation) 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, TR
Lawyers, Guns, and Money 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Airtime 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Utah Wall
Lawyers, Guns, and Money 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Utah Wall
This climbs the slabby face to the right of Shotgun crack. All I remember is clipping a few bolts on the face and then using some gear to protect the roof and cracks above. I pulled the roof a bit to the right of where Shotgun probably does. I also remember hitting chain anchors at the top (maybe shares the anchors of Shotgun??). It felt like a mid 10 at the time......[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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