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There are really two areas here. The Utah Wall and The Upper Utah Wall. Very diverse climbing with both classic trad routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10 right alongside great sport routes. This is a must do area when visiting the canyon.
The Utah Wall is located .6 miles up the canyon from the waterfall. Park at the Hole In The Rock pullout located .8 miles up the canyon from the waterfall, then hike back down to the Utah Wall. It is up the second major gully on the south side of the road. Be very careful on the approach the first 150 yards are VERY steep with allot of loose rock. It would be much easier to get hurt on this approach then on the climbs.
14 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utah Wall:
Utah Crack 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Shotgun 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Apex 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
In The Pink 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Shotgun (Variation) 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, TR
Lawyers, Guns, and Money 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Airtime 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Utah Wall
Airtime 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Utah Wall
Really surprised that this one hasn't been added, as it is easily the best route on the Utah Wall and top tier as far as Ogden 5.10 trad routes go. Jeff Lowe originally led this for the FA when he was only 14 and rated it 5.8!This route is located on the North Ridge of Utah Wall. Approach by walking, following the spacious ledge, up and right (north) at the base of "Shotgun" and "Lawyers, Guns, and Money." Belay at a stance just before the arete. Lead up the arete through broken up ground to...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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