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Apr 29, 2013
stone depot
I am thinking of planning a trip to Utah this summer and needed some advice from locals. Looking for some sport climbing areas between 5.7-5.10 single pitch. I checked out Potash Road and they had a good bit but I'm definitely open to suggestions. Also thought about checking out SkyDive Moab is this place any good? Lastly whats the best airport to fly into coming from Atlanta? I will take any other suggestions on camping, lodging or other sites to see while in town. Thanks Jon Powell
From LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA
Joined Jan 23, 2012
94 points
Apr 29, 2013
Rapping from the top of Cat in the hat
You can probably catch a direct flight to SLC from Atlanta which is the closest big airport to Moab. You could also hit up some other areas on the way down like the Wasatch Front canyons, Maple Canyon, etc...

Also, if you are planning on sport climbing and it's in the summer Moab wouldn't be my first choice...
Tyson Anderson
From SLC, UT
Joined May 14, 2007
140 points
Apr 29, 2013
Me scaring years off my mom's life
Yeah - Moab isn't a good place for sport climbing and it's definitely not a good place for sport climbing during the summer. Maple Canyon or City of Rocks (just over the border in Idaho) are my top recommendations for clipping bolts here. Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Joined Apr 26, 2009
106 points
Apr 29, 2013
...took a 20 ft'er about five minutes after this p...
...and before you rent some shitbox sedan to drive around the wild west on your trip, consider renting one of my sweet dirtbagger rigs at basecampervans.com. I'll throw in a few crash pads and access to my guidebooks. Matt Wolski
From Salt Lake City
Joined May 29, 2002
353 points
Apr 29, 2013
Looking for those grades I second both Maple and the City. No where else would you have the quantity of routes. Not to mention the summer heat... scottso
From St. George, Utah
Joined Dec 13, 2007
49 points
Apr 29, 2013
A third for Maple Canyon here. You might also want to check out American Fork Canyon or the other Wasatch Front canyons like Rock Canyon and the Cottonwoods. Kristopher Bartlett
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Jul 27, 2012
2 points
Apr 29, 2013
Scooby Snacks
Maple seconded as well as American Fork Canyon. Tyler W
From Utah
Joined Jul 8, 2012
156 points
Apr 30, 2013
stone depot
Just out of curiosity what is the climbing like out there? Is it mostly crack climbing? I climb in the South East the land of the jugs and crimps Jon Powell
From LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA
Joined Jan 23, 2012
94 points
Apr 30, 2013
uintas
Uintas for dead of summer sport or American Fork though there's not much in the 5.7 to 5.10. Maple is pretty nice also, but seriously check out the unitas, its really nice up there in the summer


The climbing is juggy/crimpy in AF/maple. You'll find some cracks in the Uintas but you probably wont need a rack.
Ryan Goslin
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jul 4, 2010
352 points
May 1, 2013
stone depot
Ryan Goslin wrote:
Uintas for dead of summer sport or American Fork though there's not much in the 5.7 to 5.10. Maple is pretty nice also, but seriously check out the unitas, its really nice up there in the summer The climbing is juggy/crimpy in AF/maple. You'll find some cracks in the Uintas but you probably wont need a rack.


Thanks! Looks like Maple and Uintas has some good stuff in this range. Do you know of any guide books for the area?
Jon Powell
From LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA
Joined Jan 23, 2012
94 points
May 2, 2013
Owens Gorge.  Mt Tom in background.
Assuming it's going to be pretty darned hot in UT during the Summer... Higher is better!

Unitas:
mountainproject.com/v/uinta-mo...

Cecret Lake:
mountainproject.com/v/cecret-l...

I found the routes at Cecret Lake to be REALLY enjoyable and worthy of a visit. Amazing location, fun climbing, reasonable approach, cool shaded wall, soft ratings. Mini-guide available at IME.
Zirkel
From Bishop, CA
Joined Mar 18, 2007
130 points


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