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Utah Ice Conditions, 2013 - 2014
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By Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Jan 9, 2014
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12
Backoff in Santaquin Canyon
Backoff in Santaquin Canyon


Got out to Santaquin Canyon today. The first pitch of Squash Head required thoughtful placement of screws but after that it was just amazing ice.

Backoff(the picture above) was just amazing the whole way up.

Go get Some!

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By luke Lydiard
From Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 10, 2014
The Cedarcicle on 1/9/2014:


The Cedarcicle on 1/9/2014
The Cedarcicle on 1/9/2014


The big red bowl farther up the road had some ice too:


Big Red Bowl above Utah 14 on 1/9/2014
Big Red Bowl above Utah 14 on 1/9/2014

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By chadnuesmeyer
Jan 12, 2014
Take it easy
Bridal Veil Right & White Nightmare: both pitches on both routes are in fat condition. With the belay anchors exposed.

Here is a link to the pictures, I'll upload one when I have more time...
plus.google.com/photos/1168412...

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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Jan 12, 2014
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
chadnuesmeyer wrote:
Bridal Veil Right & White Nightmare: both pitches on both routes are in fat condition. With the belay anchors exposed. Here is a link to the pictures, I'll upload one when I have more time... plus.google.com/photos/1168412...


Noticed the photos were taken yesterday. Only fools would be climbing in Provo Canyon right now. The avy danger is high and the bowls above are loaded - all the wind has caused some major snow movement. If you really want to get on something fart around on Stairway it has the least danger.

Here is a journal article on the Bridal Veil slide path:
arc.lib.montana.edu/snow-scien...

Here is a nice couple videos of one coming down White Nightmare and Bridal Veil:




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By Steve J.
From Seward, AK
Jan 12, 2014
Storm Mountain Falls WI 4-5. Big Cottonwood Canyon...
How is Santaquin Canyon when the avy conditions are dangerous?? Thinking of heading down that way this week, but will avoid it if can be sketchy like Provo...

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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Jan 12, 2014
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
Backoff and Squashed Head can both hurl pretty good. Not as much potential mass as in Provo but enough to send ya hurling. Candlestick and ACT are safer and would be a preferred alternative though the trough leading up to them can be sketchy.

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By Alec
Jan 13, 2014
Stairway to Heaven, pitch three, Provo Canyon, UT
Allen Sanderson wrote:
Noticed the photos were taken yesterday. Only fools would be climbing in Provo Canyon right now. The avy danger is high and the bowls above are loaded - all the wind has caused some major snow movement. If you really want to get on something fart around on Stairway it has the least danger. Here is a journal article on the Bridal Veil slide path: arc.lib.montana.edu/snow-scien...


To add to Allen's videos, here's the slide path in its entirety:


Where the two couloirs pinch down (out of view) is the top of Upper Bridal Veil falls.

So basically, you're climbing WI4 beneath a taller, wider version of the Y Couloir. Gulp. Wet avalanches are of particular concern on rapidly warming days.

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By Micah Lewkowitz
From Longmont, CO
Jan 14, 2014
Which way to the summit?
Climbed Squashead today: the ice was cold, dry, and hard to protect . . . Backoff was great hero ice though. The anchors up and left on Backoff are a bit tricky to access since you have to traverse across bare rock, but the anchors just below the top out on the right also work well.

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By chadnuesmeyer
Jan 15, 2014
Take it easy
Thinking about heading to Joe's or Maple this weekend. Anybody have an update?

2 weeks ago in Maple: nothing on canyon road was in, nothing in box was in, the wet itchies required ~12' of dry tooling, and bowling ball was too thin protect. I'm curious if the new snow has had an effect.

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By Matt Selman
From Spring City, Utah
Jan 15, 2014
I think there's been plenty of snow to get Maple going, problem has been the temps. I've been seeing temperatures in the 50s across the valley, which doesn't bode well for Maple. I'll see if I can get up there before the weekend though.

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By Steve J.
From Seward, AK
Jan 15, 2014
Storm Mountain Falls WI 4-5. Big Cottonwood Canyon...
Micha and Hillary(?) finishing up backoff in Santaquin on 1/14/14.
Micha and Hillary on  Backoff  in  Santaquin 1/14/...
Micha and Hillary on Backoff in Santaquin 1/14/14

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By steve lindsay
Jan 16, 2014
Lone Peak
Can somebody tell me the conditions on Malans, Willard, or anything northern Wasatch? Does Echo have ice?

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By Erik Eriksson
Jan 16, 2014
taking the steep line
what about the rest of santaquin?

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By Shane M
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 16, 2014
I got thirsty after a long day of climbing
Went up to maple on Monday, the road, left fork, and box canyon were either bare or to thin to climb. We still need more snow down there.

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By Micah Lewkowitz
From Longmont, CO
Jan 16, 2014
Which way to the summit?
Just climbed Candelstick in Santaquin and it's in good condition right now. Took the right side and it felt steep (5+) but good screws and good sticks. The top out had a frozen rope on the far left, didn't bother with it, there was hollow ice for the last 15 feet that wouldn't hold a screw, but was good enough for hooking.

Backoff was super wet. Very very wet. We didn't get on ACT, but it's almost touching down. Some gentle swings and thigh squeezes could probably get you through the start of the pillar.

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By Erik Eriksson
Jan 16, 2014
taking the steep line
nice! thanks man

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By Matt Selman
From Spring City, Utah
Jan 17, 2014
Finally got out to Maple this morning. Not much ice to climb. Probably won't be any until another storm system and a good melt/freeze pattern.

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By Sam Cannon
From Holladay, Utah
Jan 19, 2014
a
Driving from Moab got a good look at the Dirtcicle. It's fun just to see the evolution of it over the season, so here's my contribution to the time lapse.

I doubt anyone really cares about the Dirtcicle an...
I doubt anyone really cares about the Dirtcicle anymore, but here's a shot from today. It's looking pretty scuzzy.

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By chadnuesmeyer
Jan 20, 2014
Take it easy
Did Joe's this past weekend: both pitches of CCC were in when I left (fairly large group after we pulled off). The upper pitch fatter than I have ever seen it but, it was aerated ice - completely soft and white.

After that we headed over to T-Rex for some quick laps and burn - out.
Kris Kleinman - # TeamEasy - route: T-Rex
Kris Kleinman - # TeamEasy - route: T-Rex

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By Eli Harry
Jan 23, 2014
Bad Bannana's
Climbed FMR couloir/gullie yesterday... There's a split across the WI4 pillar leading up to the FMR wall... It's somewhat healed... Still finished the lead but makes ya think!! Lots of water... Bring your goretex!

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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Jan 25, 2014
Funny how things change.
Climbed Santiquin on 1/23. Squash Head was super wet on the left side of the curtain and crazy unconsolidated chandeliers on the right.

Back Off was dry, hard and a bit brittle, especially the last 10M. Oh and there is about 8 feet of dry rock getting to the anchors on the left.
That being said it is HUGE.

Candlestick looks good. ATC and Angel aren't in.

The gate is locked down low and adds 20 to the walk. Haven't been down there is a few years so if this is the new norm please forgive me.

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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 25, 2014
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.
cdec wrote:
The gate is locked down low and adds 20 to the walk. Haven't been down there is a few years so if this is the new norm please forgive me.

The USFS has been closing it down low the past few years. Seems like whenever the snow level gets high enough to cover the road up.

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By Eli Harry
Jan 25, 2014
Bad Bannana's
Millers Thriller
Millers Thriller


Middle of post nasal drip
Middle of post nasal drip


Climbed millers thriller then rapped down post nasal drip and climbed it as well. Really nice ice on PND!!

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By chadnuesmeyer
Jan 26, 2014
Take it easy
Went and did Back Off on Saturday (1/25). We got to the base of the climb at approximately 8am. The ice was very brittle, every swing dinner plated. By the second pitch the ice was drippy and soft, making it easy to look like a hero.

Can't upload pictures from the mobile version of the site. Here is a link:plus.google.com/11684124507262...



#TeamEasy #EddieBauer #FirstAscent

  • **Before everybody freaks out, this route is highly prone to avalanches. Take caution and know what you are getting into.
Second pitch lead
Second pitch lead


Top of the second
Top of the second

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By G Carpenter
From SLC, UT
Jan 27, 2014
One more before topping out! 1/26/14
My two partners and I also climbed Squash Head & Backoff Sat 1/25.
The start of pitch one of Squash Head was a little wet on the left side and chandeliery on the right. Pitch two slightly wet up the gully to the belay.


Squash Head - Starting 2nd pitch
Squash Head - Starting 2nd pitch


A look down at Tim Coates from the top P2
A look down at Tim Coates from the top P2


After Squash Head dropped over to Backoff. Great ice.

Tim Coates on the1st pitch of Backoff
Tim Coates on the1st pitch of Backoff


2nd pitch
2nd pitch


2nd pitch
2nd pitch

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