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Utah Ice Conditions, 2013 - 2014
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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Dec 3, 2013
Why I do it...

Great stuff, Please Keep posting Pix and updates.


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By jackson marvell
From lindon utah
Dec 5, 2013

some quick pics of provo canyon today.
some quick pics of provo canyon today.


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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Dec 5, 2013
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior

That picture of the Stairway show some good improvement from Yesterday. Looks good
dallen


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By Sam Cannon
From Holladay, Utah
Dec 5, 2013
a

Garret and I climbed the full first pitch of Stairway. Needs some buildup. 2nd pitch and higher is just icicles and very thin smears at the moment.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 5, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

The top out of Stairway was hairy. No real ice to speak of, just snow and choss. Here's the Bridal Veil area from today (12/5). Honestly the best looking ice might have been on the first pitch of The Fang or All Is Quiet. Not exactly much competition though.

Bridal Veil Falls area 12/5/13.
Bridal Veil Falls area 12/5/13.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 6, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Priceicle is still...the same. Hacked up and forming about as quickly as we all chop it up. Brittle as porcelain and colder than a witches tit down there in that hole. Not a very fun lead, got some epic screaming barfies.

Priceicle 12/6/13
Priceicle 12/6/13


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By CWood
From SLC, UT
Dec 7, 2013

Soloed first 2 pitches of GWI and bailed yesterday afternoon. It's wet and plastic with lots of flowing water underneath on P2, which surprised me given the temperatures this past week.

Was my first time on UT ice and second day out this season, so I was still pretty psyched just to sink the tools in. I'm still new to the area and not likely to do much skiing, so shoot me a message if you're looking for a partner to climb with.

Chris


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By climberbum2
From Park City, Utah
Dec 7, 2013
climbing

The fang
The fang

The fang as of saturday.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 7, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

I'm guessing that's the second pitch of the fang where the death-tube should be? Avy forecast is high right now though.

Storm Mountain Falls is forming, but very thin right now.


Psychobabble Gully also has some ice in it.


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Dec 8, 2013

Provo climbed well yesterday 12/7. 5 or 6 separate lines on the 1st pitch of stairway are fat enough to lead with good gear. The rest is progressing nicely ice forming up well through p5.
Parties also on Bridal Veil left and right. White nightmare looks like it would go as well.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 8, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Lots of parties out in Provo Canyon today. Climbed White Nightmare and Bridal Veil Right. White Nightmare has a downpour coming off the right and left sides of the curtain. Bring your Gore-Tex. Standard terrifying snow/ice/rock/slush top-out to both of those.

Bridal Veil Left was looking pretty stout and mushroomy.



Bridal Veil Right 12/8/13
Bridal Veil Right 12/8/13



White Nightmare 12/8/13
White Nightmare 12/8/13


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 9, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Great White Icicle is in and pretty fat.

GWI 12/9/13
GWI 12/9/13


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By Steve J.
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 10, 2013
Storm Mountain Falls WI 4-5. Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT <br />Photo: Zach Clanton

found a screw on the last pitch of the gwi today. mesage me with a description so I can get it back to its owner! p.s. love the thread, keep it up!


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 10, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Climbed Provo Canyon today. Apron is looking great, second pitch of Stairway is still trying. Bridal Veil area is still looking great and forming actively.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 11, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Went down to Santaquin today. Angel of Fear is not in. ACT is thin and not touching on the second pitch. Candlestick is touching and down, but in full on WI6 conditions.

Squash Head's first curtain was wet and chandeliered. Wouldn't take screws. We decided to skip it. Upper pitch looked like it was in reasonable shape.

Squash Head 12/11/13
Squash Head 12/11/13


Backoff was actively forming. First pitch was kind of funky. Foolishly soloed up it thinking it was good all the way to the bolts but ended up bailing before the end of the first pitch. Needs another week or two to form into solid leading conditions.

Backoff 12/11/13
Backoff 12/11/13


Kitty Litter wall was the consolation prize on the way home. Can't beat that approach with a stick.

Kitty Litter Wall 12/11/13
Kitty Litter Wall 12/11/13


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Dec 12, 2013
Hummm...

SwC wrote:
Checked out White Nightmare this morning, pretty thin...


Sam, stop posting all the pics (not), you're killing me here; stuck in iceless VA. I can't even get in a quick trip up to New Hampshire; or to much kiteboarding. I'll be out at the Strawberry cabin on 7 Jan thru the 30th. I'll ping you when I get out. Maybe we can hit Joe's again; or, at least a couple afternoon outings; on the ice or the gym. Have you hooked up with big Bob B? Don't see him in here yet, and need to ring him up...


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By Eli Harry
Dec 13, 2013
Bad Bannana's

Climbed bridal veil right yesterday... Bring your gore-tex, it was super wet. Be prepared to move 10-15 feet horizontally off your line to find screw placements... I was glad to put in 19cm screws for the first time ever. A lot of the ice is really soggy. Group was climbing white nightmare to the right of us... Seemed very wet also


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 13, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Eli Harry wrote:
Climbed bridal veil right yesterday... Bring your gore-tex, it was super wet. Be prepared to move 10-15 feet horizontally off your line to find screw placements... I was glad to put in 19cm screws for the first time ever. A lot of the ice is really soggy. Group was climbing white nightmare to the right of us... Seemed very wet also


We climbed that route today. You definitely have to choose your spots carefully, but I don't think I moved quite that far off to find screw placements. In all fairness the flow is changing daily. Through a combo of luck and willingness I've managed to climb the second pitch of Bridal Veil Right three times in the past week. It's changed quite a bit and gotten steeper every time. Because of how much ice is forming it doesn't look beaten up at all!

White Nightmare is quite wet. Still gushing water on both sides. Getting climbed regularly anyway.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 15, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Hopped on the first pitch of The Fang today. Upper pitch is still not formed all the way. First pitch was pretty awful quality ice. Chandeliered all the way across.


The Fang 12/15/13
The Fang 12/15/13


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 18, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Climbed Provo Canyon yesterday. The Fang still looked bad, Millers looked wet too. Bridal Veil Left was in slightly better shape so we climbed that and Bridal Veil Right. Looks like someone put up some fresh tat on the larger flow on lookers left as you top the first curtain. If you wanna go that way.

BVL and BVR 12/17/13
BVL and BVR 12/17/13


Willard Canyon Falls was in good shape today. Has had a lot of traffic on it.

Willard Canyon Falls 12/18/13
Willard Canyon Falls 12/18/13



Willard Canyon Falls 12/18/13
Willard Canyon Falls 12/18/13



Upper section of Willard Canyon Falls 12/18/13
Upper section of Willard Canyon Falls 12/18/13


Nice and mellow. More approach time than climbing but it's pretty up there and gets you out of the inversion:

Willard Bay inversion
Willard Bay inversion


I hope some other folks will post up their pictures. This thread is gonna turn into my personal ice climbing blog if nobody else shares their discoveries.


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By Ben Brutsch
From Lindon, Ut
Dec 18, 2013
Ben

Sorry no pictures but we got on top of the second pitch of stairway today. It required a little mixed to the far lookers left or a funky traverse going right mid pitch. We ran out of time but pitch three looked good to go. Pitch four might also be touching down but we couldn't tell for sure.


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By Eli Harry
Dec 18, 2013
Bad Bannana's

Okay I'll bite garret... Lol.

Bridal veil left on Saturday the 14th.  Good ice, not a lot of water.  Alright screw placement but helped to hack for it.  Picture from the base of white nightmare that was getting double teamed that day and run laps on...  Looked pretty haggered!
Bridal veil left on Saturday the 14th. Good ice, not a lot of water. Alright screw placement but helped to hack for it. Picture from the base of white nightmare that was getting double teamed that day and run laps on... Looked pretty haggered!


Bridal veil area this morning the 18th of December. Things are wet.  Was getting a shower off the right side of white nightmare.  Second pitch was dry.  Great screw placements throughout.  Left a NEW rap ring and webbing on a tree to the right of the climb.  Looks like people were wrapping the tree directly... : /
Bridal veil area this morning the 18th of December. Things are wet. Was getting a shower off the right side of white nightmare. Second pitch was dry. Great screw placements throughout. Left a NEW rap ring and webbing on a tree to the right of the climb. Looks like people were wrapping the tree directly... : /


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By chadnuesmeyer
Dec 18, 2013
Take it easy

Any word on back-off?

On Monday night we did the GW without having to swing a pick - it was all hooking.


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By jspitzer
Dec 19, 2013

Ok, Garret I want to help keep this going also.

Not technically and Ice route, but yesterday I guided Geurt's Ridge on Olympus. The alpine mixed route is in good winter alpine conditions and requires mountaineering crampons and 1 tech tool. Up high on the ridge there was some minor ice gullies at the 50-60degree incline.

You need a 35m-40m rope for the two rappels on the ridge. I brought a couple cams and 1 stubby screw.

There is a good write up description on this route at this link. www.mountainproject.com/v/geurts-ridge/105740651

Fun way to spend time out of the Brown Cloud and get some good exercise in the mountains.


Geurt's Ridge 12/18
Geurt's Ridge 12/18


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By Parker Alec Cross
From Provo, UT
Dec 19, 2013

Just wanted to make sure everyone got this memo:

AVALANCHE ADVISORY: PROVO AREA MOUNTAINS

Issued by Drew Hardesty for December 19, 2013 - 7:20am
BOTTOM LINE
The danger is pushing HIGH danger in the mid and upper elevation steep slopes. Natural avalanches are likely, human triggered slides are certain. Avalanches may be triggered at a distance with any slides triggered on west through north through east facing slopes having the potential to STEP DOWN 1-2' deep or more, creating larger, more dangerous avalanches. Steep lower elevation shady terrain should be avoided due to wet loose avalanche potential.

This could potentially impact the ice climbs in Provo Canyon so I just wanted to make sure it got room to breathe.

Here's the link: utahavalanchecenter.org/advisory/provo


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