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Utah Ice Conditions, 2013 - 2014
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By Sam Cannon
From Holladay, Utah
Nov 7, 2013
a
So I've been hoping this thread would pop up for a while now, even though for the vast majority of routes it's still pretty early - but now I have some ice to report on and therefore a legitimate reason to get the ball rolling on my favorite thread on MP.

Followed Alec up into the Robert's Horn area of Timp and spied a bunch of smears all over, and what I think is "Picture Window" (which looked really fat - pic below). Alec led about 60 meters of screw-protectable WI3 on the east face of Robert's before it got too thin. We continued for approximately 2 rock/snow pitches further but it didn't seem to be anywhere near as good as the lower 60 meters.


View of the route
View of the route



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the middle of the pitch
the middle of the pitch



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--- Invalid image id: 108427371 ---

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By michael voth
Nov 7, 2013
2nd pitch of Womb.
glad to see this is rolling, look forward to finally getting some utah ice in. I've seen you around on satans corner and pentapitch area Sam. I am from Colorado and will be there around thanksgiving and again in december. Hopefully some ice comes in for me!

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By Sam Cannon
From Holladay, Utah
Nov 7, 2013
a
Nice yeah I remember meeting you! If you ever need a partner here in UT feel free to send me a PM and I'll message you my #.

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By Kai Larson
From Sandy, Utah
Nov 10, 2013
Tour Ronde North Face
Ice on the flank of the Sundial, by Lake Blanche. November 10, 2013


Sundial Ice
Sundial Ice



Sun Dial Ice
Sun Dial Ice

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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 11, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.
Drove by the dirtcicle today. Climbable but might be kind of a crap lead. Chandeliered and wet. Classic early season shower climb.

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By Ian Hanson
Nov 11, 2013
Cold day in Rjukan, Norway
Im headed back to Utah for a few weeks in December. Hope to see some of you guys around on some ice!

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By tri-cameron
Nov 13, 2013
Here is how the the dirtcicle was looking on 11/10/13. I drove back by it today and it was even a bit thinner.

11/10/13
11/10/13

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By Alan Rousseau
Nov 18, 2013
I went up to the sundial ice and did some laps on it today. The ice is about 130' long. And has steps to about 80 degrees. It was building all day and never gets sun.
Ice
Ice

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By RICHBLISS
From Lindon, UT
Nov 19, 2013
Ouray.
Sundial Ice
Sundial Ice


Another Pic of Sundial Ice from last Friday.

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By steven sadler
From SLC, UT
Nov 20, 2013
any word on how Joe's is doing? I'll be down there this weekend and will let you guys know.

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By Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 20, 2013
P3 on Nutcracker.
Any ice for the weekend? Looks like clear skies in mid-40s this weekend.

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By steven sadler
From SLC, UT
Nov 21, 2013
According to weather.com/weather/tenday/Joe...
the weather in Joe's Valley has been snow/rain for the last few days and light snow on Saturday. I'm new to ice climbing but early Saturday morning sounds like there could be something good. Correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks for the quick reply.

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By Matt Selman
From Spring City, Utah
Nov 21, 2013
Steven, while I haven't been up there in a month or so, I'd guess that it's still early for Joe's--it will probably take a more significant cold snap to put those routes into shape. That said, you might have better success up at Mary's Lake, since it's significantly higher with a more consistent aspect. Doubters like me gonna doubt, though, so let us know what you find if you do head up there.

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By Sam Cannon
From Holladay, Utah
Nov 21, 2013
a
Climbed the Sundial ice today; actually not a bad pitch of WI3. Better than I thought it would be. However, it's a slog in, and the more snow we get the worse it will be. Waist deep postholing (tomb-stoning?) ended up creating about a 3 hr approach. For future reference, however, it's not a bad early season flow to hop on when the snow is low.

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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Nov 22, 2013
Here's a link to the weather station on the Dam in Joe's.
Wind, Precip, and Temps.
Temperature graph going back a year if you want it.
Webcams as well. Can't see any of the climbing but can see if there is snow.

ewcd.org/weather/joes-valley-w...

Post up conditions thinking of making the trip monday morning.
A swing through Huntington is recommended as each canyon comes in differently.

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By Wally29
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 24, 2013
Black Orpheus Red Rocks, NV
How do you get off of the sundial?
Is there a walk off, rap anchor, v-thread etc?
Thanks!

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By RICHBLISS
From Lindon, UT
Nov 24, 2013
Ouray.
Wally29 wrote:
How do you get off of the sundial? Is there a walk off, rap anchor, v-thread etc? Thanks!


Wally29, it's a full 60m climb so if you have 2 ropes you can come down in one rappel. If not there are 2 spots to rappel. Facing down the route from the top it's just to right off a large Pine tree. The second rap is just below off a dead tree.

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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 24, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.
The pricecicle is getting pretty badly chopped up. Leadable still if you get it in the morning.

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By Eli Harry
Nov 25, 2013
Bad Bannana's
repel down
repel down




Climbed Roberts horn ice yesterday... Did about 120 feet of mostly ice with a little bit of crappy loose rock covered in thin ice thrown in there. it's definitely protect-able but you gotta kinda go where the ice is to find a nice screw placement. Plan to bring rock gear to climb higher and walk off or V-Thread off.

Bring snow shoes or skis, we were in thigh deep snow the last 1/2 mile.

oh and we saw 5 moose on the way up so try not to get trampled!

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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Nov 25, 2013
Just back from Joe's and Huntington. Nothing is even close to in.
There is no ice on any climb at all except for CCC which looked like this.

CCC 11/25
CCC 11/25


It's just too dry.
Did 2 laps on "ol reliable" The Dirtcicle which is in good shape.


Dirtcicle 11/25
Dirtcicle 11/25


Pray for snow and colder temps or just go rock climbing.

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By Alan Rousseau
Nov 25, 2013
I went into Provo to dry tool today and was surprised by some ice. At the end of the day I took a couple laps on the left side of the apron. Wet but well bonded ice.
Stairway
Stairway

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By Briggs
From Vernal, UT
Nov 26, 2013
Tangled up in blue
Cdec-

No ice in Joes, does that include Marys Lake?

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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Nov 26, 2013
Didn't look like it from the reservoir.

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By Sam Cannon
From Holladay, Utah
Nov 27, 2013
a
White Nightmare and Bridal Veil
White Nightmare and Bridal Veil


Checked out White Nightmare this morning, pretty thin.


The Apron is "in" enough to climb, and w...
The Apron is "in" enough to climb, and we burned a few TR laps on it. Wet and soft but decent.


The Apron

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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 27, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.
In case anyone is wondering, nothing in the Bridal Veil area is safe to lead. Everything was gushing like a fire hose too. Also checked out the ice further east in Provo. Parts of Millers Thriller and the first pitch of The Fang are in, but just as juicy as the rest of Provo Canyon. If it freezes at night you might be able to get some laps in. Bring the Gore-Tex! It felt a little colder this morning than the Provo Canyon weather station showed.

In case people are curious about weather and don't have it bookmarked, I like this page:
wrh.noaa.gov/slc/current/meso....

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By Eli Harry
Nov 28, 2013
Bad Bannana's
The apron
The apron




If you do choose to hit the apron stay far left as there is a ton of rock and ice fall from the right side. Bring goretex pants at a minimum!

FLAG


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