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Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13
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By Scott Adamson
Jan 1, 2013

put the missing bolt back on 7th heaven. Didnt add any extra. you will still need to place smaller screws in the traversing ice blobs

Andy Knight on (7th heaven)the 7th pitch of the stairway to heaven
Andy Knight on (7th heaven)the 7th pitch of the stairway to heaven


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By bsmoot
Jan 2, 2013
Me in the 70's

Nice action shot...saw you up there late Saturday. Conditions don't look too bad.


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By Tyler King
From Salt Lake, UT
Jan 2, 2013
Touch Up

Warren Robbins wrote:
Official verdict: Joe's ice is out, as opposed to in (surprisingly) as of Dec. 29, 2012.


Really? What about the pics Mooner submitted of the Donorcicle Dec 19th? seems like it should be much fatter after the weather we've been getting...


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By mikek
From SLC, UT
Jan 2, 2013

Some buddies and I did CCC Falls and the Donorcicle on the 30th. Top of CCC was thin but in, Donorcicle was in.


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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Jan 2, 2013
Why I do it...

Kevin Chuba wrote:
Good luck finding this one in Idaho I think it was put up by BSU. It was thin but at 140' I still was grinnin. Too warm yet. I drove through twin falls on the way home. To bad I didnt have my belay with me or would have got on some good ice.


Hey Kevin,
It was super cool to climb with you, I had a blast. This week would be a great week to see if those drips in the Boise area are in. It was -7*F at my house last night.
Keep in touch.
Kevin


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By Matt Jesperson
Jan 2, 2013
Sunrise on the summit of Cotopaxi, Ecuador.

Got up Miller's Thriller today. Coverage is good, but the ice is still a bit funky. Rotten chandeliers covered with a frozen layer of snow/ice. Hopefully the milder temps next week will provide some TLC for the ice.

Miller's Thriller, Provo Canyon, Utah
Miller's Thriller, Provo Canyon, Utah


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By chadnuesmeyer
Jan 3, 2013
Take it easy

Made it down to Maple last weekend. The main canyon has most of it routes in (up to Box Canyon - didn't go any higher)>

Ran some laps on running man. It is thin up top, if you look close you can see where I kicked through the ice, and had to mix it out through the top.

Box still need more time to come in (I didn't go super high up).

The road has seen some snowmobile traffic but, there is no chance of getting a car up there. It took us about 30-40 minutes to boot pack it in there.

Maple Canyon, Running Man
Maple Canyon, Running Man


Maple - Main Canyon - looking east of running man you can see two ice climbs and a mixed route that are in.
Maple - Main Canyon - looking east of running man you can see two ice climbs and a mixed route that are in.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 3, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

In case anyone was wondering most of Provo Canyon is in. Bridal Veil Right is in good shape. Bridal Veil left was doing a lot of settling and weird ice formation.

White Nightmare was also looking thick.

The first couple pitches of Stairway are also in and thick.


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Jan 5, 2013
Hummm...

Just chimming in; keep the topic at the top. Heading to the cabin at Strawberry mid January for a month or so. I'll try to check on the climbs & conditions in the area and post an update then...


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By Scott Adamson
Jan 5, 2013

went up shower tower. we were out of there by noon.found good gear (pins, cams, nuts)you can rap with 70m but its close. if you want to do it dont hit the snoozer. havnt done soft n juicy yet but it looks like it formed back up!

shower tower
shower tower


shower tower
shower tower


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By Alec
Jan 5, 2013
Stairway to Heaven, pitch three, Provo Canyon, UT

Storm Mountain Falls is in, takes 13s and an occasional 16cm all the way up. First pitch is steep!

Get on it quick, as it may not last past the weekend. First pitch was pretty drippy by the time we got back down.

Pitch one
Pitch one


pitch two
pitch two


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By Kevin Volkening
Jan 6, 2013

Climbed Miller's today. The whole thing is in great shape. Found some gear on the climb. PM me with the gear you're missing if you'd like it back! P1 of The Fang is real wet...P2 is climbable but 50% ice / 50% waterfall.


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By Ryan Hamilton
From Orem
Jan 7, 2013

Can anyone tell me what the waterfall area is called about 1 mile up the Provo BST, heading around to the west face of Cascade? You take a spur off the BST and head up the mountain to get to the waterfall. If you know the area can tell me if there are any bolts or is the pro all screws and v-threads?

Thanks


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By vanman798
Jan 7, 2013
Mt Ogden, Summer 2012

Ryan, perhaps you are referring to "playmate"? See www.mountainproject.com/v/playmate/106647271


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By Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Jan 7, 2013
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12

Hey Everyone, Just thougt people would enjoy a picture of some ice that had not been posted on this form as of yet. Here is a Picture taken of Malan's in Ogden on 1/7/13 at 5pm. Im looking forward to climbing it here in the near future. Ill post pictures. Hope you enjoyed this post!

Hey All, Just thought everyone would enjoy this Picture of Malan's in Waterfall Canyon in Ogden. It looked Phat. Took the picture at 5 pm 1/7/13.
Hey All, Just thought everyone would enjoy this Picture of Malan's in Waterfall Canyon in Ogden. It looked Phat. Took the picture at 5 pm 1/7/13.


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By Ryan Hamilton
From Orem
Jan 8, 2013

vanman798 wrote:
Ryan, perhaps you are referring to "playmate"? See www.mountainproject.com/v/playmate/106647271

No, that's not it, but this is now on my list, looks like fun.
The area I'm talking about is an actual waterfall, and not just a drainage. Here is a picture from a hundred yards away. I found a few pitons in cracks near the base of the falls.


Unknown falls on NW face of Cascade Mt.
Unknown falls on NW face of Cascade Mt.


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By Ryan Hamilton
From Orem
Jan 8, 2013

Ryan Hamilton wrote:
No, that's not it, but this is now on my list, looks like fun. The area I'm talking about is an actual waterfall, and not just a drainage. Here is a picture from a hundred yards away. I found a few pitons in cracks near the base of the falls.


Found it, it's called Fudgepacker
www.summitpost.org/fudgepacker/374722


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By max huecksteadt
From Leavenworth, WA
Jan 8, 2013

Just went to Joe's for two days, conditions are great! Should still be good by the weekend, and hopefully longer!
(Original pics aren't sideways, mp flipped them for some reason)

CCC is in, top curtain is in fat (was a little wet at 4pm), no pics!

Donorcicle is in fat, cauliflower hookfest almost all the way up
Pillar on the right was a firehose

donorcicle 1/7/12
donorcicle 1/7/12


Climbed Bushdiver, lived up to its name...but definitely in fat- notably 2 columns around WI3


bushdiver first column
bushdiver first column

bushdiver p2
bushdiver p2



Deadbolt is also in all the way, we only did the first ~60' column but I'd suppose the rest is also in (approach was wet though!)


deadbolt p1
deadbolt p1




Amphitheater is almost in, getting a lot of sun, and Wolfenstein is definitely NOT in

Go get it!


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By Dan Allard
From West Chester, PA
Jan 8, 2013
Day at Summersville Lake

max huecksteadt wrote:
...Donorcicle is in fat, cauliflower hookfest almost all the way up Pillar on the right was a firehose .... Go get it!

looks super fun!! enjoy!


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By jspitzer
Jan 9, 2013

Climbed on the Scruffy Band today in LCC. Great conditions with thick ice up the middle of the main scruffy band. The WI 4 pillar at the top is in good fat conditions as well.


Main Scruffy Band
Main Scruffy Band




Upper Pillar in excellent conditions
Upper Pillar in excellent conditions


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Jan 10, 2013
Hummm...

Next stop Utah! But for the moment here is some of New Hampshire's ice this season, if your out this way. Could be a phat season.

Falls area north of N Conway, discovered by George Hurley (WI 3+/4+). I think visiting Jeff Lowe put up an M8 on opposite wall. Fun day of cragging; 1.5 mi gentle hike in.
Falls area north of N Conway, discovered by George Hurley (WI 3+/4+). I think visiting Jeff Lowe put up an M8 on opposite wall. Fun day of cragging; 1.5 mi gentle hike in.


Frankenstein area with loads to climb. Standard route 2/3 pitches of WI 3/4. People up in the cave gives foreshorten perspective.
Frankenstein area with loads to climb. Standard route 2/3 pitches of WI 3/4. People up in the cave gives foreshorten perspective.


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By Brian in SLC
Jan 10, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

jspitzer wrote:
Climbed on the Scruffy Band today in LCC. Great conditions with thick ice up the middle of the main scruffy band. The WI 4 pillar at the top is in good fat conditions as well.


Uhh, you meant WI 3 pillar...ha ha.

WI3 - generally sustained in the 60-70 degree range with occasional near-vertical steps up to 4 metres

WI3: Sustained 70 degree with possible long bulges of 80-90 degrees; reasonable rests and good stances for placing screws.

3. Sustained 70 - 80 degres ice, usually thick and solid. May
contain short, steep sections, but will have good resting
places and offer good protection and belays.


The steep bit on that pillar is maybe 6-8 feet long?


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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Jan 10, 2013
Why I do it...

Of course none of that applies to Cody WY or Bozeman MT. They seem to make up their own scale. I climbed a WI 2+ in Cody and the book said it was, "Not worth the hike".
Kevin


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Jan 10, 2013
Hummm...

Brian in SLC wrote:
Uhh, you meant WI 3 pillar...ha ha.

Ya, it's hard to say looking at the pic, and not being on the pillar, but it looks 3ish at the moment to me. I just did a 20ft narrow WI3+ pillar out here in the east that was 80+ degrees, and a dead vertical WI4 with 20+ft sections, and would say they looked harder than the Scruffy pillar pic. Just the same it looks like a fun airy climb, and I hope its up when I get out there later this month.


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By bsmoot
Jan 11, 2013
Me in the 70's

Stewart Falls, January 5
Stewart Falls, January 5


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