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Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13
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By Briggs
From Vernal, UT
Feb 26, 2013
Tangled up in blue

As of last week, Rough Neck is not in. About 6 feet or so from connecting.


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By Mark D Evans
From Sandy, UT
Feb 26, 2013
Enjoying the view from the top.

RonB wrote:
And I'm leaving Tuesday! It's tempting enough to cancel my flight and stay another week...By the way, who's the impostor 'Mark Evans' :')


Long story short, I had a friend plan a climbing trip with a different aquaintence named Mark, thinking it was me, and had a bit of an epic... So he started calling me "the real Mark Evans." So, did you end up staying in town?


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By michael voth
Feb 26, 2013

Whats the Great White Icicle look like? (i live in Colorado)


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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Feb 26, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

GWI as of last friday, in but completely chopped up, just a hook ladder the whole way.



GWI 2-22-13
GWI 2-22-13


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By steve lindsay
Feb 26, 2013
Lone Peak

Is anything in Logan Canyon in? What are the conditions on Malans in Ogden?


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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Feb 26, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

malans as of sat


malans 2-24
malans 2-24




haven't been to lagan since my last post about last chance falls so can't tell you on conditions up there.


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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Feb 26, 2013
Why I do it...

scott cooney wrote:
GWI as of last friday, in but completely chopped up, just a hook ladder the whole way.


A few weeks ago, I climbed GWI for the first time and had a blast. While I was belaying a person from this Forum, I noticed 5 other soloist's on the route. I wonder how many ascents this route gets per week and how many of those ascents are solo's?
I think the percentage would be interesting.
Kevin


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By jersey
From park city, utah
Feb 26, 2013
zion wall monkey


water ice soft porn
miller was in last week but a little thin


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By Brian in SLC
Feb 27, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

GWI fat and cold as of Monday night. Gobs of snow.

Take care as we get rapid heating this weekend folks.


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Feb 27, 2013
Hummm...

The Real Mark Evans wrote:
Long story short, I had a friend plan a climbing trip with a different aquaintence named Mark, thinking it was me, and had a bit of an epic... So he started calling me "the real Mark Evans." So, did you end up staying in town?


Nope...back in VA/DC area, and it's nasty wet; no snow, no ice, just mud; and they don't like you MTBing on the trails here after a rain; and blah blah blah blah blah...I'm already planning my spring trip back to Utah!...


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Feb 27, 2013
Hummm...

chadnuesmeyer wrote:
...Also, I saw some of the Strawberry pictures. Where is Strawberry Road? In Advance, Thanks.


Go to google maps and type in "Strawberry Pinnacles, Duchesne, UT". That's on Strawberry Road. The climbs are both east and west of the pinnacles. They all are on cliffs that face dead north mostly, south of the road. Keep your eyes peeled into the woods for the western climbs. They see zero direct sunlight and the temps stay generally colder than, say, Provo canyon; so they hang around...Wish I could join you; enjoy!


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Feb 27, 2013

Climbed this corner between the Bumble Bee and Psychobabble Walls today.
Rock gear and small screws for 90ish' of really fun thin ice and mixed. A bit harder than the Scottish Gully.
Who's climbed it. Brian do you know something about it?



From the road about 10 days ago.
From the road about 10 days ago.


The route today 3/27
The route today 3/27


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By Brian in SLC
Feb 27, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

I know NS climbed that route back in January and said he pulled some old fixed gear/tat off it that looked a number of years old...


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By Sam Cannon
From Holladay, Utah
Feb 27, 2013
a

Climbed 5 pitches of Frozen Assets today. Ice pretty thin on the first pitch and protection marginal. Probably going to be gone soon.


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By RKM
From Alpine, Utah
Feb 27, 2013
Another day at Red Rocks. <br /> <br />Photo by Joanne Urioste

Dude! Miller's Thriller ???

Still an embarrassing name, glad I didn't come up with that. All Jim Knights idea. Loved the video though.

Ha!


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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Feb 28, 2013
Why I do it...

RKM wrote:
Dude! Miller's Thriller ???


Is it in? What about the rest of Provo Canyon?


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By vanman798
Feb 28, 2013
Mt Ogden, Summer 2012

Kevin, Provo Canyon is still in pretty good shape as of today. However the forecast for the weekend is temps in the 50's F, so I'm not to hopefull that the ice will survive that.


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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Feb 28, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

so a lil update from Malans, went to get on it last night and right before launch notcied a pretty sketchy fracture, at least sketchy to me... anyways the bottom of the first pitch is fractured at least 95% across if not 100% hard to tell with the ends in the snow, and behind it is hollowed out already. the one pic in the day I photoshoped the line in for the approximate location. most of it was big enough to stick a hand straight through to the rock behind and lots of flowing water even with last nights cold temps. This fracture is new within the last couple days, wasn't there on saturday.

fracture
fracture


photoshop line
photoshop line


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By AKM1878
Feb 28, 2013

was in sataquin on sunday. good ice but be a bit careful of pillars.

this one was attached before we started up it... we also backed off of ACT because of cracking.

base of act
base of act


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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Feb 28, 2013
Why I do it...

AKM1878 wrote:
...careful of pillars. this one was attached before we started up it... we also backed off of ACT because of cracking.


I'm looking for confirmation here.
I started ice climbing in 2002, and along the way remember reading Will Gadd's book. He mentioned that when the temps are low, there will be a good ice/rock bond and the ice is "safe". Once temps get higher, the rock heats up (greater thermal mass) and it melts the ice rock bond leaving a freestanding or free hanging shell. Once the weight of the lower hanging section is greater than the pillars tensile strength, a crack/fracture is observed.
How did I do?
Any other explanation for why these cracks are appearing?


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By Brian in SLC
Feb 28, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

kevinhansen wrote:
Any other explanation for why these cracks are appearing?


Thermal stress.


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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Feb 28, 2013

As water cools into ice it expands, when it warms it contracts.


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By Erik Eriksson
Feb 28, 2013
taking the steep line

whats the pillar on second pitch of act lookin like?


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 1, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Erik Eriksson wrote:
whats the pillar on second pitch of act lookin like?


I was climbing in Santaquin today and even with the temperatures being around 10 degrees last night it was wet. Bring a hardshell, she's a gusher.
ACT
ACT


ACT has formed up some odd growths.
ACT/Candlestick
ACT/Candlestick


Candlestick has all kinds of weird growths which make it quite reasonable to climb. Nice and spooky top out when leading though.
Candlestick
Candlestick


The first pitch of Squash Head has a super bizarre leaning curtain of semi-attached ice. Had several fountains of water going. Second pitch was fantastic though.
Squash Head
Squash Head


Backoff is thick and pretty drippy on the right side. Best quality ice I've climbed on this season though.
Backoff
Backoff


Get Back On It is over with.


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Mar 1, 2013
Hummm...

Allen Sanderson wrote:
As water cools into ice it expands, when it warms it contracts.


And, look at what the ice is bonding to above and below the crack; like solid rock above and soft stuff below, and maybe nothing in between, or more rock below. Good spots for chronic fracturing in the ice due to the above explanation, i.e., thermal stress, as previously diagnosed. I suspect the rock bonded ice is pretty safe, especially where the ice lies back against the rock. Still, it looks warm this weekend out there, so more fracturing, so climb safe. Wish I were there at the moment, not in VA; but PA has snow, so maybe a 3hr drive is required; NH and NY have ice & snow, hummm...


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