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Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13
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Nov 12, 2012
Which way to the summit?
Is it getting close enough to start this thread? I know I'm excited. Went hiking at Joe's Valley area with the dog on Sunday 11/11 and took some photos. Joe's is still way too thin, even at Mary's Lake. The Dirtcicle was actually in almost climbable conditions though. What about colder areas like Robert's Horn?

Donorcicle
Donorcicle



Pitch 1 of CCC Falls
Pitch 1 of CCC Falls
Micah Lewkowitz
From Longmont, CO
Joined Mar 4, 2009
61 points
Nov 13, 2012
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
Micah,
Did you head up to Mary's Lake while you were out hiking? Just wondering... Normally Mary's is one of the first areas to come in.
Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Joined Aug 2, 2006
460 points
Nov 14, 2012
All lines in BVF area are in top to bottom...Stairway is forming up...climbed Apron via TR yesterday...conditions were thin...some running water in places but overall good sticks...10 to 13 cm screws would work for leading Harry Richardson
Joined Apr 12, 2010
30 points
Nov 14, 2012
Ben
I top-roped the apron Monday and today. The lines are in but its getting thinner and softer, not sure it will survive the week. I also took a hike up to Roberts Horn on Friday (11/9) found no ice anywhere. It might have started forming since. Ben Brutsch
From Lindon, Ut
Joined May 10, 2012
6 points
Nov 14, 2012
Why I do it...
I live about 2 hours North of SLC and have never climbed Wasatch Ice. Anyone looking to get out this Friday and Saturday? Send me a PM with your phone and we can meet. I can lead WI3-4 and follow WI5.
All my Ice experience is in the Teton's, Cody, Bozeman, and Twin Falls ID.
I'm not a noob, just looking to get out this weekend.
Kevin
kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Joined Apr 21, 2008
49 points
Nov 14, 2012
Which way to the summit?
Sunny D,
Mary's has ice, more than the roadside ice at Joe's, but still not leadable. Sorry, no pics . . . It looked like there hadn't been enough moisture there, because the temps should have been low enough last week through the weekend to get it forming up nicely.
Micah Lewkowitz
From Longmont, CO
Joined Mar 4, 2009
61 points
Nov 15, 2012
Why I do it...
It is on like Donkey Kong! kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Joined Apr 21, 2008
49 points
Nov 15, 2012
Me in the 70's
Upper section of GWI is gone. Ice below is looking poor.

Some ice on Super Slab. Too bad the temps are warming.
bsmoot
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,862 points
Nov 16, 2012
Leading Blue Collar Crack.
Just thinking about ice gets me all excited. Let's hope the Donorcicle looks as good as it did last year: Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
1,274 points
Nov 16, 2012
Turtle Wall, St. George
Has anyone seen the dirtcicle? petercoe
From utah
Joined Sep 21, 2009
141 points
Nov 17, 2012
Why I do it...
petercoe wrote:
Has anyone seen the dirtcicle?

I ran 3 laps on it yesterday. It was melting fast, and a torrent was running off of the top. I was glad I had my hard shell on. Too unstable to lead. It was a neat experience. I've never climbed under a fire hose.
Still worth it, even with the drive from Albion Idaho just for that.
Kevin
kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Joined Apr 21, 2008
49 points
Nov 19, 2012
False start. Over before it started. Rain to 8000'
Rock will be dry and warm though.
cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
239 points
Nov 19, 2012
climbing
I wish the ice was fat as I am right now. climberbum2
From Park City, Utah
Joined Dec 9, 2010
12 points
Nov 20, 2012
Haha
I took this pic from the Aspen Grove parking lot, when the route is in its totally visible, my guess there is about 8" of snow on top of rock. May ski up and check it out next week, the freeze thaw cycle should be in high gear and this could form up fast. Otherwise lets all start making some serious sacrifices to the god of ice!
Roberts Horn
Roberts Horn
BJ Graham
From Orem, UT
Joined May 16, 2012
22 points
Nov 26, 2012
Ouray.
Timp Ice on Saturday 11-24-2012
Timp Ice on Saturday 11-24-2012
RICHBLISS
From Lindon, UT
Joined Jan 20, 2012
57 points
Nov 26, 2012
Ridge did you climb it? cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
239 points
Nov 27, 2012
Climbed Dirtcicle on 11/26/12....looks almost like the picture on 11/20/12...good conditions Harry Richardson
Joined Apr 12, 2010
30 points
Nov 27, 2012
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
I was up on Timp on Saturday. Must have got there before Ridge did. I climbed the first 30+ feet and backed off. The Sun is baking the climb and it is mostly consolidated snow. If you are going to get on it get up really early. We were there at about 9:30 in the morning. We did find a good piece of ice up to the left of this climb it has an anchor on the top of it now. Webbing on a tree. The Picture window area has no ice at all...
Dallen
Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Joined Aug 2, 2006
460 points
Nov 27, 2012
Ouray.
Aspen Grove, Timpanogos
Aspen Grove, Timpanogos


Ha Ha! True, you did get there a few minutes before me. I just set up this account (username Ridge). I meant to post the conditions; but, I was sidetracked after I uploaded the image. Here's a POV shot from the ice that we did find. Dallen lead the route.

Rich
RICHBLISS
From Lindon, UT
Joined Jan 20, 2012
57 points
Nov 27, 2012
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
That is funny, Yep we were climbing together.
Dallen
Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Joined Aug 2, 2006
460 points
Nov 28, 2012
Take it easy
Led the Dirtcicle on Saturday 11/24. Everything was solid and decently protectable, only concerned with one placement. Afterwards we ran laps on it until one of us punched through at the top and the thing started raining water everywhere.

Here is the link to pics:
plus.google.com/u/0/1168412450...
chadnuesmeyer
Joined Nov 22, 2012
107 points
Nov 28, 2012
Take it easy
Ben Brutsch wrote:
I top-roped the apron Monday and today. The lines are in but its getting thinner and softer, not sure it will survive the week. I also took a hike up to Roberts Horn on Friday (11/9) found no ice anywhere. It might have started forming since.


I hiked up to Miller's Thriller on the 22nd, no ice anywhere.

However, I finally found a trail (Bush whacked it up there for years), looks like somebody has been working hard on building a nice trail up to the area. Go across the Upper Bridge, then behind the abandoned pump house, up the main trail for ~40 yards then turn and head west. It was marked with surveyors tape.
chadnuesmeyer
Joined Nov 22, 2012
107 points
Nov 28, 2012
Dirtcicle 11/28. 24 up there at 9:45AM today. Climbed and protected well. A little wet but it always is.


Dirtcicle
Dirtcicle
cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
239 points
Nov 28, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
^^^
The Dirtcicle has never looked so good!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
10,997 points
Nov 30, 2012
Why I do it...
Anyone been up LCC to climb ice? kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Joined Apr 21, 2008
49 points
Nov 30, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
kevinhansen wrote:
Anyone been up LCC to climb ice?


Nope. Way too warm. Mid 40's at Alta.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
10,997 points


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