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Utah Wall
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Utah Crack T 

Utah Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,923
Submitted By: Robert 560 on Jun 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: Another sketchy photo but looks down from the top....

Description 

This is an obvious two pitch crack at the center of the wall. The first pitch is about 100 feet long and allot of fun. It ends at a bolted belay. Pitch two goes to the top of the cliff and a belay must be built. Walk off to the south.

Location 

Center of the wall

Protection 

A standard free rack is needed.


Photos of Utah Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Leading Utah Crack May 2008
Leading Utah Crack May 2008
Poor quality photo (sorry) but shows the belay station.
BETA PHOTO: Poor quality photo (sorry) but shows the belay sta...
first pitch beta
BETA PHOTO: first pitch beta

Comments on Utah Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By wasatch-mtn-man
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun to do both pitches although one 60 m rope will take you to the top (barely). We rappelled off the top in lieu of walking off. We used two ropes but I have rapped off of this route using one rope to the belay station and then down.

There is an old, bent piton at the top but one can easily run a long sling around a crack for the anchor.

The belay station in the middle of the route has two good bolts at a nice ledge and easily accommodated our party of three.

From the 'hanging' belay we angled to climber's right to the alcove where the tree is then traversed left along an easy ramp. As I was the last to follow and the route had been cleaned, I simply went straight up the face which could be led but with more sketchy pro. Some of the flakes on this upper face had loose blocks on them.

Fun, easy route. Good route for intro to multi-pitch climbing.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is an exciting climb. It is a consistent 5.6 with lots of good holds, and lots of good pro. The middle anchors are at exactly 100 feet. A doubled 60 meter rope dangles just above the deck.

By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 6, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Does anybody even know why those "hanging belay" anchors are even there? If you're going to rap, even from the top, go to the anchors on the ledge. Save yourself some trouble. Also, on top there are two sets of anchors to rap from: the obvious piton/sling rap, or the metal cable that is looped through a small hole 4 feet north of that one. The latter will be a much easier pull.
By Matt Brodhead
From: Logan, UT
Sep 26, 2010

This is a good place to take beginners.
By Max Dillman
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun easy climb, excellents for beginners or those learning to place pro. Pitch one is very straight forward. The second pitch will make you scratch your head on where you're placing pro. There are also many loose blocks on the second pitch. Atop the second pitch there is now some really heavy duty webbing threaded through a crack. It has a rap ring on it and is excellent for getting down to pitch 1
By Shawn S. Barker
May 28, 2013

An excellent place to learn placing pro., to take a beginner, or to practice climbing using one hand to improve footwork and balance.
By Megan Henderson
From: Ogden, Utah
Jun 29, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This was my second trad lead. The first pitch is perfect for beginners because it is a nice long pitch with great stances, and easy to protect! I'd say the first pitch is 5.5. I followed on the second pitch, and I feel it is more of a 5.7 for short people. I recommend rapping off the second pitch instead of doing the walk off. The walk off is a mess and especially not fun in the dark. Lots of bushes, cacti, scrambling, and scree galore!