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Utah / Arizona Climbing trip advice
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Oct 23, 2012
Hi there,

I'm a Canadian climber from Squamish heading down south in search of dry rock through the western States. I would really value some advice from American climbers on where I should go.

I love trad especially pure crack climbs, 5.9 - 10+, follow to 11+, but also enjoy clippin' bolts.

Definitely will visit Trout Creek in Oregon, and would like to end up in Moab / Indian Creek before it gets to cold.

Anything recommendations along the way? City of Rock? Little Cotton Wood Canyon?

When it gets cold, will probably head to Flagstaff/Sedona if no snow.

Where should I go after when winter hits?

I'll be leaving friday so given the weather, what's the best road trip this time of year?

Any suggestions advice would be sincerely appreciated...always looking for partners along the way too.
B Black
Joined Oct 19, 2012
0 points
Oct 23, 2012
Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...
City of Rocks is fantastic and certainly not to be missed.

It snowed in the SLC area today, and is supposed to keep going through Thursday. However, anything on the north side (south facing) of Little Cottonwood will be dry a day or two after a snowstorm. Last winter, I was climbing in LCC all winter long!
Charlie S
From Ogden, UT
Joined Aug 23, 2007
1,106 points
Oct 23, 2012
City and LCC is probably the best route for you, but it would also be worthwhile to check out Ibex. Maybe make it a stopping point on your way back. Odds of finding a partner there are not great, though.

After Sedona you might look into Zion/St George. There's granite at Prescott.
ddriver
From SLC
Joined Jul 30, 2007
292 points
Oct 23, 2012
Respect thy lieback. The start to Airgasm roof!
It might be too cold in Flagstaff and Sedona. Make sure you keep your eye on the weather forecast along your trip and maybe consider heading to Southern Arizona. There are some very choice granite and limestone areas.

Best of Luck,
Fellow climber.
CALEB ANDERSON
Joined Oct 8, 2009
896 points
Oct 23, 2012
Mashers Tower
cochise stronghold is pretty epic Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
163 points
Oct 23, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
From City of Rocks facebook page:

Raining hard this morning; very dark - snow at Bath Rock and higher. Looks like the second side of fall is rearing its head! But we need the rain.

We're in a wintery mix here, with, folks waxing the boards. Talking about snow to the valley floor in the short term.

I'd recommend looking at some weather forecasts a bit prior to launch.

Southern Utah looks fab.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,030 points
Nov 7, 2012
5.12 b
Ideal climbing conditions on south facing walls in Little and Big Cottonwood canyons right now. But that will only last till Friday, and another storm will hit.
Southern Utah is generally a safe bet. Keep your eye on the weather for Indian creek, San Rafael Swell, Zion, St George area (snow canyon). If you need to keep going south, Red Rock Nevada is fantastic and almost always dry.
Mr. Hummus
From SLC, Utah
Joined Jul 18, 2010
35 points
Nov 8, 2012
me
If you've never been and it isnt raining, index, Washington has the best granite cracks I've ever climbed. probably very similar to squamish. Trout creek has the best splitters short of the creek. I would skip the salt lake area and head straight for the Moab area if it were me. I've also heard really good things about the water fall area in oak creek canyon North of sedona. have fun! earl mcalister
From idaho
Joined Aug 11, 2010
41 points
Nov 8, 2012
My advice would be to stay out of Utah. It's full of mormons and shitty beer. Sweet climbing doesn't make up for that. Reginald McChufferton
Joined Sep 24, 2012
1 points
Nov 8, 2012
dream canyon fun!
cold cheese strong mold !!!!!! sedona!!!! IC FOR SURE but watch the weather in the creek this time of year .... it snow"s but if yer Canadian you should be fine.... Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Joined Jan 14, 2010
3,256 points
Nov 8, 2012
meow
Reginald McChufferton wrote:
My advice would be to stay out of Utah. It's full of mormons and shitty beer. Sweet climbing doesn't make up for that.


yes it does. Hop Rising.. by squatters brewery.. 9.0 abv and 75 IBU's. or wait. oregon has precedent on beer... and assholes. have fun at smith and trout creek... and ... oh wait that's it. quit being an asshole. i voted for obama... it's okay dude.
Alex Quitiquit
From Salt Lake City
Joined May 18, 2011
259 points
Nov 9, 2012
epicbrewing.com/awards-and-acc... sevrdhed
Joined Oct 23, 2006
157 points
Nov 9, 2012
Reginald McChufferton wrote:
My advice would be to stay out of Utah. It's full of mormons and shitty beer. Sweet climbing doesn't make up for that.


I have found Mormons and shitty beer in every state of the Union as well as Canada.
So you may as as well just climb and look for good beer.
If Flag and or Sedona are a little on the chilly side head to Prescott and climb at Granite Mt. I used to get away with climbing there in the dead of winter and the rock quality is quite good. Also there is a lot to do around the 5.9 to hard 10 range.
cheers
Tom Hore
Joined Jun 23, 2009
168 points
Nov 9, 2012
Flagstaff can be doable this time of year depending on the weather. Paradise Forks is the primary destination but The Pit is ok sport climbing and warmer (not exactly a destination though). Lots of adventure climbing in Sedona. If you want to get on long routes, November can be a great time to go to Granite Mountain in Prescott (weather permitting). Greg DeMatteo
From W. Lebanon, NH
Joined May 12, 2007
387 points
Nov 9, 2012
Ze Mountain Chas Waterman
Joined Sep 24, 2011
25 points


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