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Useless Tools begins from a sit start that ups the ante for the moderate problem Broken Arrow. Begin from a sds on high sloping crimps, pull your butt off the ground and campus up to a left hand edge. Do not cheat by using a dynamic butt start. Now that the real difficulties are over, enjoy surfing right across really good holds and finish as for Broken Arrow.
Since it's really an awkward 1-move wonder into a really nice V3, I've given it only 1 star. That doesn't mean there's anything wrong with playing on this problem, it's just "OK" as far as V9s go.
About 20 feet left of Seurat on the same boulder, Useless Tools is the sit start to Broken Arrow.
An Organic pad or two.
|By Cesar Valencia|
Oct 29, 2012
rating: V7- 7A+
Pretty sure this got downgraded to a V7, since it's one kind of weird move. I thought it was fun, but I know for a fact it's not a V9.
|By Ryando Smithman|
From: Golden, CO
Jun 16, 2013
rating: V7 7A+
I can see the campus being difficult for some, considering there is no option for footwork. That being said, this problem was rather easy for me, but I'm more of a power climber. Tough call.