Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Laurel Knob
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 
Aloha slab T 
Annie Get Your Guns T 
Arrested Development  T 
Before the Settlers Arrive T 
Better late than never T 
Biopsy T 
Black Flag T 
Buried Treasure T 
Canyons of Laurel T 
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 
Central Pillar of Laurel T 
Clippidy Doodah... S 
Clowns to the Left of me T 
Cotton Pony  T 
Cruising with the Top Down T 
Defective Sonar T 
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 
Dillard Arete T 
Don't call me surely T 
Dry streak T 
Fathom T 
Fathom Direct T 
Fathom Escape Hatch T 
Finger Lickin' Good T 
Friction Addiction T 
Frolictown T 
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 
Funky Chicken, The T 
Get it while it's hot T 
Gibbet , The T 
Girl friend route T 
Groover (Fischesser Finish) T 
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 
Have and Not Need T,S 
High & Dry T,S 
Hone Ranger T 
Hypocrite's Corner T 
Jokers to the right  T 
Keel Hauled T 
Laurel's Girdle T 
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 
Manatee Fluid T 
Mechanical Bull T,S 
Mirage  T 
Mirage Direct Finish T 
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 
Monster Groove Reject Start T 
Mutiny T 
Nana's Bananas T 
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 
No Sir (?) T 
O.K. Corral T,S 
Oasis T 
Old Times' Sake T 
Permission Granite T 
Pirate's Cove T 
Pirate's cove Alt start T 
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 
Puff The Magic Dragon T 
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 
Rejected Radar T 
Route Of The Living Dead T 
Seconds T 
Squirrely man T 
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 
Stellar Sonar T 
Stemming Laurel T 
Stingray T 
Unfathomable T 
Use It Express T 
Use It Or Luge It T,S 
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 
Walkin' Da Plank T 
Wild Turkeys T 
Wild Wild West  T,S 
Wormhole T 

Use it or Luge it Direct Start 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Andrew M. - November 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: andjoely on Nov 30, 2009  with updates from nbrown

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

Place gear in horizontal to prevent you from tumbling way down slab if you blow moves to first bolt. Clip first bolt, decipher a well protected, tricky crux. Climb past another bolt (added by FA party, 2014) and good holds (5.9+), then mantle and clip the third (used to be the second) bolt.

Continue up to a flared crack 5 feet higher which takes offset cams and tricams. Climb up and left on cool face holds to another crack which takes medium cams. Climb up the water groove and the face next to it to a stance in the groove, just before it steepens. Here, people used to undertake a 5.8X traverse left to #1 Camalot placement, and then back right into the groove to finish the pitch. In 2014 the FA party added two bolts in the groove, creating a more direct pitch. The whole first pitch is about 150 feet long done this way with about 60 feet of new climbing for the direct start.

  • Thanks to Andrew and Nathan for new bolts and new information. Directly from Nathan:

Andrew recently decided to add 3 bolts to this pitch [described above] In the process, a much easier and even more direct start was discovered after the removal of loose debris. It's called "Use It Express" and listed in the database.


Location 

Go up to the tree ledge left of the slabby apron where Manatee fluid starts. The obvious crack in the Middle of this ledge is the start of Nana's Bananas. This route starts about 30 feet left of Nana's Bananas just right of an obvious steep black water streak which is the continuation of the water groove of Use it or Luge it.


Protection 

Offset cams and tricams are nice to have. The direct start wont take anything larger than #2 camalot though when you get to the pillar you could place most sizes.



Photos of Use it or Luge it Direct Start Slideshow Add Photo
photo
BETA PHOTO: photo
Comments on Use it or Luge it Direct Start Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ed Williams
Dec 1, 2009

Badass! Nice work...