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Laurel Knob
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No Sir (?) 
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Permission Granite 
Pirate's Cove 
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Puff The Magic Dragon 
Quantum Mechanic's Arete 
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Route Of The Living Dead 
Seconds 
Squirrely man 
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel 
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. 
Stellar Sonar 
Stemming Laurel 
Stingray 
Unfathomable 
Use It Or Luge It 
Use it or Luge it Direct Start 
Walkin' Da Plank 
Wild Turkeys 
Wild Wild West  
Wormhole 

Use it or Luge it Direct Start 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Andrew M. - November 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 519
Submitted By: andjoely on Nov 30, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Topo
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Description 

Place gear in horizontal to prevent you from tumbling way down slab if you blow moves to first bolt. Clip first bolt (I used a single locker since the second bolt is way up there) decipher a well protected, tricky crux. Get to good holds from which you don't want to fall from after the crux (5.9+ R, plus nasty fall potential onto slab), mantle and clip second bolt. Continue up to a flared crack 5 feet higher which takes offset cams and tricams. Climb up and left on cool face holds to another crack which takes medium cams. Climb up the water groove and the face next to it to a stance in the groove just before it steepens, then delicately traverse left to the pillar where you get good gear (around #1 camalot or so with a very long sling). This traverse section is 5.8X. Double ropes or very long sling recommended or back clean it after clipping the next bolt. then continue right back to the groove to finish up the standard first pitch. The whole first pitch is about 150 feet long done this way with about 60 feet of new climbing for the direct start.


Location 

Go up to the tree ledge left of the slabby apron where Manatee fluid starts. The obvious crack in the Middle of this ledge is the start of Nana's Bananas. This route starts about 30 feet left of Nana's Bananas just right of an obvious steep black water streak which is the continuation of the water groove of Use it or Luge it.


Protection 

Offset cams and tricams are nice to have. The direct start wont take anything larger than #2 camalot though when you get to the pillar you could place most sizes.



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By Ed Williams
Dec 1, 2009

Badass! Nice work...