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Routes in The Arsenal
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Black Caesar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bobby Brown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Chain Gang, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Colinator, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Das Fruit Machine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Debaser S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Doctor Epic (Doktor Epik?) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Dope Party S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fool’s Gold S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Fresh Loaf S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Jamboree (Jam-bor-knee) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lolanator S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Matador Pants S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Path, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Pollinator, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pretty Hate Machine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pump-O-Nator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pump-O-Rama S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rendezspew S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Salty S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slagissimo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Smarmacus Maximus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sprayathon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Spurt-a-tron S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Squeal Like A Pig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Turtle Power S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Use It Or Lose It S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Vitamin D S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Vitamin H S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Chris Knuth |
| Page Views: | 889 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Aug 9, 2002 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is probably one of the least-climbed routes at Rifle -- not because it's low quality, but because the bolts are all in the wrong spots.
Originally envisioned as a tough directissima that tackled the left-trending seam/crack just left of Pretty Hate Machine, this line actually climbs a bit right of and above the seam at the crux, making it hell'a hard to clip the bolts. To boot, tick marks pasted on the wall *10* years ago have yet to wash off, resulting in a helter-skelter slathering of sucker chalk.
Scramble up onto the Pretty Hate Machine choss ledge. Start just left of Pretty Hate, making big moves to good holds on increasingly steep rock. When the route reaches its steepest, set up and do a big lunge up and right to the sloping foot rail on Pretty Hate Machine (people stand on this when they're resting below the top crux of Pretty Hate). Glom the boot-rubber slope, and work back left, reaching way left at shin height to clip in (good luck!). Easier climbing leads to the anchor.
Were this re-bolted, it would be a pretty cool, bouldery route.
Originally envisioned as a tough directissima that tackled the left-trending seam/crack just left of Pretty Hate Machine, this line actually climbs a bit right of and above the seam at the crux, making it hell'a hard to clip the bolts. To boot, tick marks pasted on the wall *10* years ago have yet to wash off, resulting in a helter-skelter slathering of sucker chalk.
Scramble up onto the Pretty Hate Machine choss ledge. Start just left of Pretty Hate, making big moves to good holds on increasingly steep rock. When the route reaches its steepest, set up and do a big lunge up and right to the sloping foot rail on Pretty Hate Machine (people stand on this when they're resting below the top crux of Pretty Hate). Glom the boot-rubber slope, and work back left, reaching way left at shin height to clip in (good luck!). Easier climbing leads to the anchor.
Were this re-bolted, it would be a pretty cool, bouldery route.
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