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Routes in Ishinca Valley
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Ishinca, 5530m Northwest Slopes Easy Snow |
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Karma de los Cóndores T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ranrapalca Northeast Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2-3 M3 Steep Snow R |
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Ranrapalca, 6162m, North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI3 M3 |
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Southeast Slopes to East Ridge, Urus Este 5420mts. Easy Snow |
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Tocllaraju Northwest Ridge AI3-4 Steep Snow |
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Tribal Passage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2 R |
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Urus Central (South Face) AI2-3 M2+ Steep Snow R |
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Urus Este Standard Route Variation T AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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Urus Este, West Face M5 Steep Snow |
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West Face Indirect Steep Snow |
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| Type: | Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,029 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Rich on Mar 15, 2013 |
| Admins: | Tony Yeary, MAKB |
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Description
Depending on the conditions at the time, this climb can vary wildly. We found gravel ice, steep snow, some mixed, and some alpine ice.
Approach the climb by approaching Urus Este in the Ischinca Valley, then head left (west) across a small glacier towards Urus Central which is the next highest peak to the left of Este. You can pretty much find your own way up the South Face, making it as easy or hard as you want. The easiest route we found followed several small ice gullies up the face. After ~1200 feet of climbing, we gained the summit ridge, which is ~100 yards/100 vertical feet from the summit. This ridge can be very corniced and is full of loose rock.
See pictures and their captions for more beta regarding the approach and the climb.
Approach the climb by approaching Urus Este in the Ischinca Valley, then head left (west) across a small glacier towards Urus Central which is the next highest peak to the left of Este. You can pretty much find your own way up the South Face, making it as easy or hard as you want. The easiest route we found followed several small ice gullies up the face. After ~1200 feet of climbing, we gained the summit ridge, which is ~100 yards/100 vertical feet from the summit. This ridge can be very corniced and is full of loose rock.
See pictures and their captions for more beta regarding the approach and the climb.
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