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You will have plenty of time to think about the differences between PG and R on this excellent classic three pitch face route with lots of variety.
Pitch 1 runout up the very easy smooth apron to a right leaning, right facing thin dihedral with pretty good gear until it ends at a steep face with a horizontal crack. Great cams can be found in this horizontal 3 feet either right or left to replace the missing pin, but you will have to work for it. Make the wild crux mantle to clip a welcome bolt. Golden edges and a mantle past 2 more bolts then make a wild thin traverse left to another horizontal and a bolted belay. 5.10c PG 50 meters.
Pitch 2 easy traverse 10 feet right to a thin 5.9 dihedral with good gear to horizontals. Move left past a loose flake. Further left and up past 2 bolts with great knobs 5.9+ to a 0.75" cam under a flake, wild face climbing to the right up the flake to a bolted belay 5.10-. 30 meters.
Pitch 3 starts left then goes right on unbelievable thin face and knobs past 7 bolts. Most of the time will be spent making 5.10 moves with a bolt below your feet. Finish up and right to a thin dihedral. Gear belay here. 5.10b PG 50 meters.
Scramble 4th class to the top about 20 meters.
This route is on the steep Northwest face of Dozier Dome, about 200 meters right (west) of Errett Out and Holdless Horror. Look for a smooth golden slab leading to the right leaning, right facing dihedral on the low slab.
To descend, walk down from the top west cross the stream that drains Cathedral Lakes and then down easy slabs class 2. Hike back to your pack. This should take about 15 minutes total.
Bring a light rack with a good selection of gear from thin nuts, TCU's to 2-1/2" cams. I found an extra 0.5" to 2" cams particularly useful on the first pitch that has a bolted belay. Pitch 2 has 2 bolts with plenty of supplemental gear, bolted belay. Pitch 3 has 7 bolts and ends at a gear belay 0.5"-1.0" cams.
Rebolted by ASCA 2002 so all the bolts are new and shinny. Long slings and double ropes help on this wandering route.
|By Phil Esra|
Jul 8, 2013
More scary than dangerous, but definitely PG13++. A little gritty here and there as of summer 2013. A single rack up to #2 should be plenty, with maybe 1-2 extra finger-sized cams--I brought a full double rack and felt silly--it's mostly bolts (or nothing).
At the p1 roof, look for gear on your left, not right, to reduce rope drag--I placed a cam on the right, and even with a 1.5 length sling on it I still had awful rope drag above.
I didn't find anything on p3 to be harder than the p1 roof.
Description above is very accurate--you can figure out the line from the ground, but can't really see the final little dihedral. Don't worry, it's up there.
|By Short Fall Sean|
Jul 12, 2013
Just did the first pitch. The mantle felt like solid 5.10 (maybe 10c-ish) above questionable gear with a likely nasty fall onto the slab if you blow it. Definitely a stout little section. With a single rope you can rap off the bolts at the top of p1 (They're the kind with the rounded edge so you can rap straight off the hangers) down to a point on the slab where you can walk down.