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BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Ursula. P2 continues up the face r...
The first pitch is a bit more devious than it looks from the ground. The crux corner of this pitch felt thin and challenging for the grade. The belay ledge is plush for the changeover. 5.5, 80'.
P1. Climb the right-facing corner, ramp and crack past a thin open book (left of the sentry box) and up to a stance. From here, sling everything long, traverse right 20', then up an easy chimney to a belay ledge and fixed slings.
P2. Pull over a nice bulge and go straight up to the GT ledge via some fantastic face climbing. 5.5, 100'.
Rappel the route in 2x60m.
Overall it's a great line; each pitch has its own distinct character.
Start in the first of two right-facing corners 25' right of the classic Bonnie's Roof.
Solid pro is available where you need it, but can somtimes be a bit tricky to place. Small wires helpful on the first pitch. Otherwise a standard Gunks rack is perfect.
Damon Farnum protecting the route's crux on P1.
Approaching the end of P1.
Looking down the second pitch of Ursula. The clim...
Rich Gottlieb checking out a variation that's like...
Becky Diamond on pitch 1.
Tricia beginning pitch 2.
Pitch 2 of Ursula
zoom on the crux - P1
start of P2
Boulders sticking out.
Some of them a...
"sling salad" above P1 as of Nov. 2011
Leading P1 of Ursula on May 16, 2013.
Sep 2, 2007
I enjoy Ursula a lot. That said, it's not a route I'll recommend for a new leader - to paraphrase Dizzzy, there's only a little bit of 5.7 on it ;-) and protecting it well isn't trivial - the most obvious placements are nuts in the corner, which will get a significant outward pull. It's also hard to avoid rope drag - use long slings on everything you place at & after the top of the corner. You won't be able to see your second, so consider that as well.
Carefully inspect the sling salad that is the rap station above P1 - the slung constriction has sharp edges, and I've seen it chop through a few slings over the years.
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 6, 2010
P2 is all that and more. It's a fun, happy jug haul from the start to the finish. I think this is one of the nicer 5.5's at the gunks.
Let's talk about P1. The photo above shows what I think is a 5.7 variation. If you climb directly into the alcove, clip the pin in the alcove and then pull the move to get out of the alcove it's 5.5 all the way. If you do the 5.7 variation, it's really thin.
Jul 19, 2010
Best 5.5 I've been on. Takes a lot of small to medium nuts on P1. Build a gear anchor in the horizontals on the belay ledge and step down so you can see your second. This also lets you get some of the shade coming from the trees.
Nov 4, 2011
I really enjoyed that climb. Looks like we got into 5.7 variation on P1. So it got tricky but definitely worth trying. We used mostly nuts on P1 and camalots on P2. Great station on the end of P1 to make an anchor. At the end of P2 there is a solid tree.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Apr 30, 2012
This is one of the better 5.5 routes at the Gunks. Pitch 1 is thin, committing, and generally well protected. I followed the route properly last year but thought it felt more like 5.7 After following on it and then leading it again this year, Pitch 1 is definitely only 5.5 The 5.7 "variation" is to the right of the route as described.
Pitch 2 I feel is PG at the start and stout for 5.5 Even as a solid 5.6/7 leader at the Gunks I felt this was on the hard side, and the gear above the initial piton/pin wss either far left/right, or just wasn't there for a few moves. There's actually two cruxy moves off the belay ledge and it moderated after that. I feel the start of Pitch 2 is PG-ish.
Jul 8, 2012
the variation on pitch 1 that breaks left and goes up to the roof and ends at some slings (on a couple of pitons and a nut) goes about 5.7 G and stays pretty dry, making it a nice variation for rainy days.
|By Logan Schiff|
From: NY, NY
Jul 25, 2012
Great climb but stiff for the grade. I agree with Kevin that pitch 2 feels like PG at the start getting over the initial crux move.
|By John Gassel|
Oct 1, 2012
Just did this route yesterday and really enjoyed it. My new favorite 5.5's at the Gunks. I linked pitches together on doubles and had no issues with rope drag. Makes an awesome ~180ft pitch.
Felt that the first pitch crux as very tough for the grade. Gear placement mid-crux is tricky, best to just push through it, so 5.5ish leaders beware.
Second pitch has some large wobbly blocks.
|By Simon L|
From: Hartford, CT
Nov 12, 2012
Great climb with a whole mix of variety. P1 takes small gear, as of 11th Nov 2012 there are fresh slings at the belay/rap station. P2 is quite a bit longer, nice crux move pulling a small overhang then sustained juggy climbing up the face. Takes lots of tricams and cams in C4 0.4 range. Couple of loose blocks to watch out for. Trees at top for anchor, slung for rappel as of 11th Nov 2012.
Apr 8, 2013
That P1 rappel pinch eats slings for breakfast -- they HAVE to be replaced often. Inspect carefully.
|By Dana Bartlett|
6 days ago
That P1 rappel pinch eats slings for breakfast
That's for sure.