Climb the obvious diagonal undercling crack left of Waynes World, joining and crossing that route then continuing straight up the crack to the top of the cliff. Belay and rappel from bolts/slings in a corner.
On Waynes World formation, East of main Bear Cliff.
Gear: cams to 3.5" Clip a bolt or two on Waynes World. Rappel.
|Comments on Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack
|By Floyd Hayes|
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Leading the lower part of the initial undercling crack is spooky, it feels like it could pop off when you pull back on it--presumably inspiring the name "Guillotine Crack" (which I like more than Ursa Minor). I clipped three bolts connecting the lower crack and the upper crack. I didn't think the upper crack was any harder than the lower crack and thought both crack sections were solid 5.8 and easier than 5.9. The length of the climb was about 90 feet including the initial traverse; lowering or rappelling off a 50-meter rope might not make it to the bottom.
Oct 3, 2013
you can lead a variation of this climb, avoiding the lower curved crack, by clipping the bolts for Wayne's World and one on Just Bearly, then placing one 3" cam in the crack at the steep crux. fun long route and worth doing. 5.8