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Central Wall
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Uriah's Heap 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 2,006
Submitted By: Allan Sieja on Jun 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Uriah's Heap starts on the lower pillar leaning ag...

Some areas require a guide.

Description 

Good fun climb with a small roof section on p2. Third pitch is kind of run out with very little for placements. Bolts on third pitch are far to the left near a cactus, this is also the first set of bolts for the rap down.

Location 

To the right of Cake Walk. Hike up behind and slightly left of mushroom boulder. This route starts at the base of a heap of rocks that make a series of cracks.

Protection 

Take small to medium cams and stoppers. There are bolts at the belay stations and rap rings to the left of the line.


Photos of Uriah's Heap Slideshow Add Photo
Russ pulling into the arch on the second pitch
Russ pulling into the arch on the second pitch
Watch for loose blocks
Watch for loose blocks
Traversing out on the start of the 2nd pitch.
Traversing out on the start of the 2nd pitch.
The central wall.
BETA PHOTO: The central wall.

Comments on Uriah's Heap Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 17, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

P1 is has loose blocks and large cracks. Bring stoppers and cams to 3+" if you want to protect. Belay ontop of large pillar at 2 bolt anchor.

P2 is fun climbing and should stop there. Like it's neighbor to the left (Hueco Syndrome) going all the way to the summit just to walk off is a waste. Rap from the top of p2.

~Susan
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 17, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The second pitch is good and actually has pro. There are a couple of bolts, some big holds and you can stuff some cams in the arching roof area, maybe up to 3" cams.
By Tom Willard
From: Avon, CO
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I climbed this route a couple of weeks ago and thought it was a nice change from bouldering everyday. The rock on the third pitch is questionable, but the first two pitches are clean. The bottom crack pitch was good fun and well protected, but the second pitch seemed a little bold for a 5.7? Getting to the second pitch bolt required threading small nuts into some cracks in the huecos; it seemed more like mental protection... exciting. I would recommend this climb.
By Gilroy
From: Boulderado
Apr 25, 2011

Rapelling the route is common but don't rap down P1 line, Go to climbers left a good bit. Good chance of getting your rope stuck otherwise.
By Chad_N
From: SEKI, CA
Feb 4, 2014

P1 & P2 can be linked into 1 great pitch w/ a 70m.