Urge to Mate
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BETA PHOTO: Perfect pin protects precarious protuberance.
A short but excellent, thin hand crack with good rests and the requisite manky pin at the crux. From the ledge, follow the obvious crack straight up to a crux near the top.
#2 camalots & Smaller
BETA PHOTO: Matt Johnson on "Urge to Mate" at Palisade Head, M...
FA photo showing block at beginning of crack.
FA circa 1988 Peter L Scott
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jun 23, 2008
calling this route thin hands is debatable. i never placed anything smaller than a #2. gear: 2-3 #2 camalots, #3 camalot, few runners. route is maybe 45 feet long. long webbing for belay/top rope anchor helps. belay at ledge takes small cams and/or nuts. i used a orange tcu, yellow tcu, and a medium/large nut.
|By Peter L Scott|
Sep 20, 2011
FA Peter Scott circa 1988
Not Chris Holbeck (He's a friend of mine and can confirm this) he was the belayer on the FA
Originally there was a loose block at the beginning of the crack (see photo) that I later trundled and then reclimbed the route. This made the initial crack longer.
I love the belay ledge on this route! The position is incredible .
Glad to see people climbing this route.
|By Scott Schumann|
From: SLC, UT
Nov 29, 2012
So classic. Every year I worked for the Voyageur Outward Bound in Ely we'd make a pilgrimage to climb at Palisade and specifically to climb Urge to Mate. This route is awesome: hands at the bottom and steep cruxy face moves at the top. It's a must climb for the area! Love it!
Find the top by looking for the small "Headstonish" looking rock facing away from the lake.