Urge to Mate 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Peter L Scott and Chris Holbeck, 1988. |
| Submitted By: | Travis Hibbard on Feb 16, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Perfect pin protects precarious protuberance.
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Description From RCM&W A short but excellent, thin hand crack with good rests and the requisite manky pin at the crux. From the ledge, follow the obvious crack straight up to a crux near the top.
Protection #2 camalots & Smaller
top-out.
| BETA PHOTO: Matt Johnson on "Urge to Mate" at Palisade Head, M...
| FA photo showing block at beginning of crack. Cli...
| FA circa 1988 Peter L Scott
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By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Jun 23, 2008
| calling this route thin hands is debatable. i never placed anything smaller than a #2. gear: 2-3 #2 camalots, #3 camalot, few runners. route is maybe 45 feet long. long webbing for belay/top rope anchor helps. belay at ledge takes small cams and/or nuts. i used a orange tcu, yellow tcu, and a medium/large nut. |
By Peter L Scott Sep 20, 2011
| FA Peter Scott circa 1988 Not Chris Holbeck (He's a friend of mine and can confirm this) he was the belayer on the FA Originally there was a loose block at the beginning of the crack (see photo) that I later trundled and then reclimbed the route. This made the initial crack longer. I love the belay ledge on this route! The position is incredible . Glad to see people climbing this route. |
By Scott Schumann From: SLC, UT Nov 29, 2012
| So classic. Every year I worked for the Voyageur Outward Bound in Ely we'd make a pilgrimage to climb at Palisade and specifically to climb Urge to Mate. This route is awesome: hands at the bottom and steep cruxy face moves at the top. It's a must climb for the area! Love it! Find the top by looking for the small "Headstonish" looking rock facing away from the lake. |
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