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Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

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Morro da Babilonia 
Morro da Urca 
Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf) 
Pedra de Urubu 

Urca (Pao de Acucar area) 


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Location: -22.9499, -43.1591 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,125
Administrators: TYeary, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
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On top of pitch 5.

Description 

The Urca National Park is the climbing center of Rio de Janeiro. It contains the Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf), the Urca, Babilonia, and many smaller faces and boulders. Here you can find 1000 foot multi pitch trad lines of all grades as well as smaller routes, boulders, and sport crags. Most of the climbing is techy face climbing, but there are also huge chimneys, splitter cracks, and hard overhanging sport climbs.

Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.

From the top of Pao de Acucar, you can take the cable car down free of charge to the first station. From there you have to walk down a trail to get back to the parking lot.


Getting There 

There are three or four bus lines that go into the Urca area from various parts of the city. They will say “Urca” on the front of the bus. It is best to ask around to get the specific bus number in your area as these things have a tendency to change over time.

Taxi’s, of course, work too.


20 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',9],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Urca (Pao de Acucar area):
Via das Italianos   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 9 pitches, 700'   Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Browse More Classics in Urca (Pao de Acucar area)

Featured Route For Urca (Pao de Acucar area)
Gotta love what salt water can to to steel!

Lagartao 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a  South America : Brazil : ... : Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
This is one of the more popular routes up the Totem, the huge pillar leaning on the south face of Pao de Acucar. It is a multi-pitch trad/sport route that has hard face, hard crack, and fun chimney climbing. The first ascent party did it without sticky rubber and at the time it was one of the hardest routes in Brasil....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Apr 7, 2012

This info needs to be consolidated with the existing information for Urca. Admins?