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Urban Redevelopment
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.9 from 8 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Dave Evans & Jim Angione, December 1986 |
Page Views: | 752 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 3, 2006 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a great route on the left edge of the Watts Towers main buttress. Spot a single bolt on the left side of the wall perhaps 7 meters up and just right of the climb Sole Food. The climb Urban Redevelopment climbs easy but less protected 5.6 to this bolt, then up 5.8 moves on some crispy rock to reach a crack that appears mid-wall.Follow this line on trad gear to the top of the crag.
I'd have given the route more stars if there were fewer crunchy holds on it. While I don't see these as dangerous, they just are not as fun as solid climbing.
A few cams from 2"-3.5" can make a solid belay anchor up top, but you have to figure a way to keep the rope from dropping into the crack while your partner follows. This is the same anchor as for Sole Food and with some creativity, might be a TR anchor for both or either.
To descend, walk and scramble off to climbers right and then boulder-hop back up the gully to the base.
I'd have given the route more stars if there were fewer crunchy holds on it. While I don't see these as dangerous, they just are not as fun as solid climbing.
A few cams from 2"-3.5" can make a solid belay anchor up top, but you have to figure a way to keep the rope from dropping into the crack while your partner follows. This is the same anchor as for Sole Food and with some creativity, might be a TR anchor for both or either.
To descend, walk and scramble off to climbers right and then boulder-hop back up the gully to the base.
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