On the North end of The Gym (referred to as the "New Gym" in Thompson's guide to Cactus/Spiny), but to the right of Black Mamba Arete, is a steep red panel that is split by a crack. Follow a line of bolts past the seam which widens to a finger, then hand crack, over a small roof. Do an exciting lieback move and pull left to two more bolts and work the crack up to the anchors. The route finishes below a roof.
A very nice route and worth the walk from Cactus and Spiny ridge. Also in the shade in the afternoon.
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Oct 15, 2003 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+E3 5b
A steep line up beautiful red rock. Lots of positive edges and a finger crack crux give this route a different feel than many of the Shelf pocket-fests.
By Edward Jenner May 17, 2004 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+E3 5b
2-stars for a great route marred only by the bird crap near the anchors. The small roof is more intimidating when you get to it than it looks from the ground, but there is a bomber juggy pocket to make the next clip from. Interesting, continuous and fairly steep make this route worthy
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