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 ADVANCED
Poe Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brothers in Arms T 
Edge of Fright T 
Eyes of the World T 
Maelstrom, The T 
Mississippi Half-Step T 
Off Your Rocker T 
Prequel to the Sequel T 
Uptown Toodeloo T 

Uptown Toodeloo 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Olaf Mitchell and Peter Prandoni
Page Views: 926
Submitted By: Kevin Stricker on Dec 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Uptown Toodeloo.

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Description 

Uptown Toodeloo is the third in the trilogy of hard crack climbs on the Poe Buttress. Although given a harder rating than both Mississippi Half Step and Edge of Fright, it is in some ways the easiest route on the formation do to the excellent rests and short cruxes.
Uptown Toodeloo follows the cracks on the left edge of the Poe Buttress. The first pitch starts with a bulging 5.8 fist crack leading to a low angle dirty handcrack and chimney, belaying on a large ledge. A better alternative is to start with Off your Rocker or the first pitch of the Half Step.
Pitch two is the business and starts up a 5.10 hand and finger crack on the far left of the buttress directly right of a chimney. This crack becomes a flake at the top and ends at a small ledge on the arete. Reach right around the corner, clip the first bolt, and make some technical moves on small crimps (crux) to reach a jug on the arete. Clip your second bolt, mantle, and work your way right and up an overhanging fingercrack. Steep liebacks and jams take you past the difficulties, and a short OW brings you to the top.

Protection 

Medium stoppers and cams to 3" with a few extra TCUs. A double rope rappels gets you down, or make 3 single rope rappels down Off your Rocker.


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By Scott Bennett
Feb 24, 2009

Another fine route in the Poe trifecta! Although not quite as good as its classic neighbors, it's definitely worth getting on if you're up there. Don't let the grade scare you away, it's not really a harder lead than the other 2 routes here, especially if you're decently tall. My partner and I are both 6', and we both thought that the "crux" protected by the bolts wasn't as hard as the off-balance, pumpy, and hard-to-protect lie-backing above. Luckily there's a fixed nut there at the moment.
There's a nice new bolt and chain anchor atop p2, but it looks like you'd need 2 ropes to rap from here back to the main ledge. Fortunately you can easily rap down and right about 30' feet to the anchor atop Half-step, and from there back to the main ledge (a 70m rope may be required for this rap, see comments for Half-step).
-Scott
By Olaf Mitchell
From: Paia, Maui, Hi,
Feb 28, 2009

I found that U.T. was far more enjoyable with that fixed nut in place.
Thanks for the possitive report Scott, I always enjoyed the line every time I did it.It's a stand alone route that compliments it's two brothers very well.