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The opening move requires a "dyno" if you are less than 6'1" but all moves are well protected with the four bolts all in the right places. You then move right to a sloping ledge where the crack begins; up and left to chains. This anchor is above the anchor for "Rudyard Kipling," you pass this anchor on your left after clipping the fourth bolt. Way too bad the rock quality deteriorates so as to prevent topping out on the tower!
Just around the corner from Rudyard Kipling on what we will be calling "Author's Tower." This area is known as the "Tower Section" of the Lower Jungle." That would be the southeast corner of the tower.
Four quick draws, three runners, medium to small cams with a few small wires.
BETA PHOTO: Lower section bolted, upper section trad
Setting up the first move, a dyno
Thin edges to a small crack
Pulling the corner
Short people's set up for the dyno
Heading for the 4th bolt
Upper trad section
BETA PHOTO: Edge right to the arete and straight up into the c...
BETA PHOTO: The Author's Tower has four routes. This is Upton ...
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo (7/10/12)
|Comments on Upton Sinclair
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Got a bit confused apparently and stopped at the anchors on the shelf after the 4th bolt, making this a sport route. The blank face is stellar, bring you best edging shoes and get in balance mode for the transition onto the arete.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Jun 21, 2012
Did something break? Getting past that 3rd bolt was frustrating to say the least! 5.9 A0 for me.