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Bad Ju-Ju Roof T 
Upside Down Y Crack T 

Upside Down Y Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joe Keyser and Scott Welsh
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 362
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Feb 22, 2003

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Description 

This is a short crack that looks like an upside down Y. The crux is pulling into, and out of the pod that is formed when the two braches of the Y connect. It certainly felt like 5.9+/10 climbing, but, it faces north, and it was about 30 degrees outside when we climbed it. Not even worth the approach by itself. But, if stumbled accross, or combined with other area climbs is well worth while for some fun crack climbing. Walk off is obvious, if the climb isn't. Short, sweet.

We found this nice little splitter crack among the bushwhacking below the Icebox wall/Powerhouse Pinnacle/Thornbird Face areas near Cynical Pinnacle. These crags are located on the north side of the Cynical Pinnacle, and offer some great crack climbing. Expect substantial bushwhacking and boulder hoping to get to any of these climbs. Note that it would be possible (perhaps preferable) to approach these climbs from the traditional Cynical Pinnacle approach, by traversing right around the base of that rock.

Park about a half mile up the road (north-east) from the normal Cynical Pinnacle/Dome parking area. You will be directly below the climbs, and should see the Snake Buttress in-between. Hike as you would to the Snake Buttress, and you will pass the obvious route Hodge Podge on your right. Veer left here if continuing all the way up. We went straight up until almost level with the climbs, now directly west. This climb appears as a splitter crack on the North face of an obscure rock hidden amongst the trees.

From here, you could bushwhack straight (west-ish) to the Thornbird Face. We eyed a SWEET looking splitter diagonal finger crack on the Thornbird face right next to the climb Mr. Clean. Looks like three star, 5.11 or so, and would have taken more small gear than we had (Aliens, and small cams). Guess we'll have to wait until after the bird closure to see (March 1 - July 31)...


Protection 

Handful of hand sized pieces. #1-3 cams, optional #4.



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