Upside Down Race Car Kitty
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Jason Seaver, Jim Belcer, Nate Arganbright, April 16, 2006 |
Page Views: | 1,931 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | jason seaver on Jul 11, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details.
Details
2019 Seasonal closures are in place. Check with Backcountry Office (970-586-1242).
RMNP
6/12/15
K.Patterson 970-586-1363
Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP
Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.
The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.
Kyle Patterson
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
RMNP
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS
RMNP
6/12/15
K.Patterson 970-586-1363
Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP
Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.
The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.
Kyle Patterson
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
RMNP
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS
Description
Starting just right of the start to Mr. President, climb straight up to the big roof above. Traverse right under the roof for 25 to a series of slots in the roof. Arrange some protection in these slots, then bust out the roof with some fairly gymnastic maneuvers. Move right into the right-angling, right-facing corner and follow it to its end. Cross the slab to the right and join Turnkorner Direct. Climb 10 or 12 feet up Turnkorner Directs right-facing corner, and belay from slings. Continue, for 3-4 pitches, up Turnkorner Direct, Laura Scudders, or the unfinished Kitty.
At this point in time, this route can be described as nothing more than a minor variation to an historical, but obscure, full-length route. Its a spectacular pitch, by any standards, but it is really just the first completed piece of a larger puzzle/project. Its been 7 years since I pinkpointed it though, and 4 years since I redpointed it, so I figured I should report it for others to enjoy. Weve completed a 2nd pitch traversing out left from the belay, into the middle of the vast face between Mr. President and Turnkorner Direct, and 80 or so of a 3rd pitch going straight up a faint crack/flake to its end. One bolt above here is as far as weve gotten, but it remains an active project. Not that anyone cares but, I would welcome any other suitors attempts to push the Kitty further, on one condition. The route has been established completely ground-up to this point, and I would ask that that style be respected.
At this point in time, this route can be described as nothing more than a minor variation to an historical, but obscure, full-length route. Its a spectacular pitch, by any standards, but it is really just the first completed piece of a larger puzzle/project. Its been 7 years since I pinkpointed it though, and 4 years since I redpointed it, so I figured I should report it for others to enjoy. Weve completed a 2nd pitch traversing out left from the belay, into the middle of the vast face between Mr. President and Turnkorner Direct, and 80 or so of a 3rd pitch going straight up a faint crack/flake to its end. One bolt above here is as far as weve gotten, but it remains an active project. Not that anyone cares but, I would welcome any other suitors attempts to push the Kitty further, on one condition. The route has been established completely ground-up to this point, and I would ask that that style be respected.
Location
Just right of the start of Mr. President is a big, right-facing corner that quickly turns into a horizontal roof extending out right for 60 or so. The Kitty starts just right of this right-facing corner.
The best option for getting down is to continue up Turnkorner Direct or Laura Scudders to the top. If you don't want to walk down, you can bring two ropes, follow Laura Scudders to Mr. President and move left to the anchors atop Chain of Command. Two double-rope raps will get you down.
The best option for getting down is to continue up Turnkorner Direct or Laura Scudders to the top. If you don't want to walk down, you can bring two ropes, follow Laura Scudders to Mr. President and move left to the anchors atop Chain of Command. Two double-rope raps will get you down.
Protection
Standard rack up to #3 Camalot. There are currently two fixed wires on the pitch. The one beneath the roof because it just wouldn't come out and the one at the lip of the roof because it took a very hard fall. I would strongly recommend backing up the wire at the lip.
I'm giving it a PG-13 just as a precaution. On the first day of attempts, I fell off the upper corner and ripped two seemingly good pieces. I came frighteningly close to hitting the ground from at least 60 feet up. I've found different gear on subsequent ascents, but haven't fallen on it.
I'm giving it a PG-13 just as a precaution. On the first day of attempts, I fell off the upper corner and ripped two seemingly good pieces. I came frighteningly close to hitting the ground from at least 60 feet up. I've found different gear on subsequent ascents, but haven't fallen on it.
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