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Elevation: 1,410 ft
GPS: 44.41989, -72.90184
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Kristen Fiore on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Some of the best climbing in the Bolton area. Sport climbing from 5.7 to 5.12, trad climbing from 5.7 to 5.11+, a few offwidths, some chimneys, roofs and even cracks... What more could you ask for? Also home to the infamous Vermont classics The Rose and The Thorn.

Definitely check out the guidebook Tough Schist as there is much more than what is listed here.

Tough Schist Guidebook

Climbing After Rain

With such a variation of height, overhang, and aspect, there is a huge difference in whether climbs dry after rain quickly or not. This list isn't perfect or totally comprehensive but should steer you in the right direction.

Routes that typically stay dry or dry quickly:

It's Not a Cruise (True Value)
True Value
Trespassing Direct
Bungassana/Bungassima
Featherweight Champion
Chockstone
Doug the Subway Fugitive
Rancid Meat
Paradox
Peachy Canoodle
Stone Staircase

Routes that tend to seep or take a little longer to dry:

Full Circle
Take Back Vermont
Take Back Vermont From Behind
Dr. Diaz (Bottom)
Oompa Loompa
Normandy
5.7 Corner
5.7+ Corner
Fresh Meat (Bottom)
Against the Grain
The Lorax
The Rose
The Thorn
Nettles

Getting There/Parking Suggest change

PLEASE NOTE AS OF May 19, 2021: "No Parking on travelled portion of the road" signs have been added near the trailhead to Upper West. Please ensure your car is entirely off the road. CRAG-VT is working with the Town of Bolton to mitigate further closures and develop a plan for future parking access.

Go past Lower West on Bolton Notch Road for about 3 miles until you reach the old Long Trail intersection on the left. Park on the right or on the left a bit further down.

Hike along the old long trail, immediately crossing the stream with a wooden bridge. Wander 5 more minutes to a second crossing of a stream using rocks or a fallen log, this crossing changes almost every year with snow thaw. A few minutes later turn right upon reaching a sign which directs you to split off to the cliff. The first rock on the left is the Booty Area. Hiking time is about 15/20 minutes.

67 Total Climbs

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Location: Upper West Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 76
Chockstone (Ledangier)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 77
Private Property
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 77
Stone Staircase
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 28
Dr. Dias
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 98
The Rose
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 87
Fresh Meat
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 53
The Thorn
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Donkey Index
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 70
Paradox
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
 4
Bilateral symmetry
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 25
Normandy
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
Professor Booty
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Mal Bouche
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 20
Featherweight Champion
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
GNR
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chockstone (Ledangier) C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 76
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Private Property B - Upper Tier - Left…
 77
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Stone Staircase E - Lower Tier
 77
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dr. Dias C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 28
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Rose F - N End
 98
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Fresh Meat E - Lower Tier
 87
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Thorn F - N End
 53
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Donkey Index F - N End
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Paradox E - Lower Tier
 70
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bilateral symmetry E - Lower Tier
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Normandy E - Lower Tier
 25
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Professor Booty A - Booty Wall Area
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Mal Bouche C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 7
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Featherweight Champion C - Upper Tier - Righ…
 20
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
GNR F - N End
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper West »

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