Seen from Chapel Pond Slab
Multipitch moderate mecca that overlooks Chapel pond and the great range. There are number of classic routes in the 5.8-5.11 range. The most popular three routes are: Hesitation, Partition, and Prelude/overature. The cliff is in the sun from 11:00am on. The rock quality ranges from immpeccable( most of the routes) to down right scary.
Approach as for the creature wall, from the creature wall follow a faint climbers trail for 20 minutes to the base of Hesitation/Weekend Warrior
Weather station 9.4 miles from here
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Upper Washbowl Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Washbowl Cliff:
Hesitation 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Prelude 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Partition 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Overture 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For Upper Washbowl Cliff
Partition 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NY
: ... : Upper Washbowl Cliff
P1: recommended start variation is Butterflies Are Free (100 feet, 5.9-)P2: the huge dihedral with a crack (5.9) sits above the 3rd class ramp. Very sustained. In some places no real features for stemming. Left wall below the offwith was dripping wet but I was able to use the right side "ramp" and stemming to move into the overhanging offwith. It felt more like 5.10. Stand up, and high reach will get you to better, if rounded, holds and exit....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Upper Washbowl
BETA PHOTO: Upper Washbowl Cliff (Detail)
BETA PHOTO: Partition is the long dark corner towards the left...
Upper Washbowl, winter 2013
Closeup view from Chapel Pond Slabs.
Panoramic from Upper Washbowl
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Aug 29, 2009
Descent Note: The Partition rappel is "problematic". Rappelling from the top of Partition with a single 60m rope gets you to the 3rd-class ramp but most likely will not make it to the fixed anchor (a cedar) above Mastercharge. A single 60m rope will not make it to the ground from here. There is a smaller cedar about half-way down with an awful stance that has a fixed anchor, though it has a continuously changing supply of leaver biners that are cleaned and then replaced (two ropes will get you to the ground).
The ledge the large cedar is on has a couple slots where the ropes can become jammed, so care needs to be taken to avoid this. You can wedge a stick in there to prevent the rope from running in the slots or ensure you run the ropes over the lip, and not in the slots.
By Jim Lawyer
Aug 29, 2009
Regarding the descent -- the rappel on the right end of the cliff is really easy -- one rap with a 60m rope returns you to the base. Easy pull too. For some reason, this hasn't caught on. This also avoids rappelling over all the crowds on the Wiessner Route and neighboring routes.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 24, 2011
When rappelling from the large cedar on the 3rd class ledge, you can use a stick in the crack as a back-up but it is pretty easy to keep the ropes on the lip as you rappel. If you use the "stick in the crack" method, be sure to bring one from the ground. Don't break one off of the tree. Also, I didn't think the walk-off was all that bad. Yeah, it's loose in a few sections but it's pretty quick and hassle-free.
By Dominic Rickicki
Sep 16, 2013
the guidebook makes the walk off descent sound terrible but I didn't find the descent on the climbers left side of the cliff to be problematic at all, in fact it's no more difficult than hiking back down the approach trail. I would highly recommend saving yourself the hassle and just use the walk off. it's very easy to follow.
By Matt Luck
Oct 12, 2013
A 70m rope will reach from the top of Partition to the cedar on the 3rd class ledge and will also reach from the cedar to the ground.