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Upper Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete Route T 
Beast of No Nation T 
Burnt Offerings T 
Char Broiled T 
Crispy Critters TR 
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 
Dot to Dot T 
Fear of Flying T 
Ginger Bread T 
Holy Smoke T 
Jugs Revisited T 
Lesbian Love S 
North Ridge T 
Robert's Aid Crack T 
Smokehouse Brown T 
Steppin' Stone T 
T-Bone S 
Thanksgiving T 
Up for Grabs T 

Upper Spire Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.7886, -120.2451 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,490
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 10, 2006
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Upper Spire-east side. Photo by Blitzo.

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>


The Upper Spire is the largest and highest of the Phantom Spires. It has several excellent routes.

Getting There 

The approach from parking is obvious.

Climbing Season

Weather station 12.3 miles from here

19 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Upper Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Upper Spire:
North Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Ginger Bread   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Up for Grabs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Jugs Revisited   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Fear of Flying   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Thanksgiving   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Desperado (Roof Variation)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Burnt Offerings   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Char Broiled   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Robert's Aid Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Steppin' Stone   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Lesbian Love   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Holy Smoke   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Beast of No Nation   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Upper Spire

Featured Route For Upper Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike moves toward the crux on a beautiful spring d...

Steppin' Stone 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Upper Spire
Start in a prominent, left facing, corner, right of "Fear of Flying". Climb up this corner, undercling left at a small roof, continue up, undercling left at a big roof (5.11a) to a belay with two bolts. Continue up face....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Upper Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Spire, view of Steppin' Stone et al.
Upper Spire, view of Steppin' Stone et al.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber at the top of Fear of Flying.
Climber at the top of Fear of Flying.
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Spire and Flathead with routes.
BETA PHOTO: Upper Spire and Flathead with routes.
Rock Climbing Photo: Harrison Direct 11B
BETA PHOTO: Harrison Direct 11B
Rock Climbing Photo: Jared feeling "inspired"! Upper spire to...
Jared feeling "inspired"! Upper spire to...

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