Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Nautilus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side 
Automotive Supply House 
Baalbek 
Baldwin's Chimney 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) 
Bat Heaven 
Bombs Away aka B52 
Bug Squad 
Candlestick 
Cannonball 
Captain Nemo 
Central Scrutinizer, The 
Cool Hand Luke 
Cornelius 
Crankenstein 
Cupcake 
Deception 
Deep Throat 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers 
Dual 
Easy Jam 
Ejector-Rejector 
Elevator 
Escalator 
Etude For The Left Hand 
Etude For The Right Hand 
Failure to Communicate 
Father 1 
Final Cut, The 
Finally 
Flare Thee Well 
Flying Buttress 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated 
Friday the 13th 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 
Ghost Dance 
Grand Traverse, The 
Gravity's Rainbow 
H & H Grunt 
Hairlip 
Hamburger Crack 
Handjacker 
Harder Than Your Husband 
Hemoglobin 
Hesitation Blues 
Horticulture 
Humper 
In The Dark 
In the Groove 
Jim Jam 
Joke 
Knee Grinder 
Knothole 
Left Torpedo Tube 
Lower Progressive 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot 
Lower Slot Left 
Lucky You 
Max Factor 
MaxiLash 
Middle Parallel Space 
Mother 1 
Nemo's Nemesis 
Nemo's Toad 
Nitrogen Narcosis 
Octagon 
October Light 
Old Eyeful 
Outrider 
Par Four 
Petite Tarsalation 
Piton Perch 
Popcorn Farce 
Postman, The 
Pretty 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space 
Right Torpedo Tube 
Right Winger 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer 
Slat 
Slick and Superficial 
Slit 
Slut 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver 
Stinkzig 
Straight 4 Ward 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation 
Ted's Trot 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy 
Thunderbolt 
TTL 
TTR 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive 
Upper Slot Left 
Vault 
Vedajuicer, The 
Vulture Direct 
Wall-To-Wall 
War Zone 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy 
Unsorted Routes:

Upper Slot Left 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 597
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jun 30, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

This is the right-facing corner to the left of Upper Slot. The crux is moving off the ledge: there are good jams (and gear), but it's quite strenuous to get going. Once you get going, look to the right for some useful face holds for your right foot. Those with long legs can stem over to the right to a seam after a few moves to get a rest and take the edge off a bit. The crack gradually widens and the difficulty eases off considerably.


Location 

This route is the corner to the left of Upper Slot. The route links very nicely with Lower Slot. Use the bolted rappel anchor to rap off the backside of the formation. Use one of several options to downclimb from there.


Protection 

Standard rack. A couple of bigger pieces (#5, #6 Camalot) will be useful as the crack widens towards the top. A bolted rappel anchor can be used for a belay at the top. Although my partner didn't build a gear anchor, it looks like there are options if the bolted anchor is otherwise occupied.



Comments on Upper Slot Left Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This is a quality splitter with overhanging hand jams and poor feet to start. Then up the wide crack with arm bars and face climbing to a squeeze chimney, which I had difficulty getting through. Best to belay off the bolts.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 19, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The feet are really only terrible if you're using a different (read: harder) sequence. Think about this one a bit before you leave the ledge. The hand jams are really good, so there's your hint. I once watched Craig Luebben flail, just completely thrutch trying to get off the ground on this one on account of a too-tight toprope and an inclination to use the obvious beta. So, think it through before you do it.