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West Face - Left Side
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Upper Royal's Arch T 

Upper Royal's Arch 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Royal Robbins, Jerry Gallwas, and Chuck Wilts, 1953
Page Views: 4,221
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Aaron Cassebeer on Upper Royal's Arch. Photo: Vick...


Getting to the base of this route is more difficult than climbing it. It is usually used as an exit pitch after doing a hard climb below (e.g. The Passover). The arch is large and obvious.


standard rack

Photos of Upper Royal's Arch Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the arch.
Looking up at the arch.
Jeff pulling the roof of Upper Royal's Arch
Jeff pulling the roof of Upper Royal's Arch
I believe this team was going from Piton Pooper to...
I believe this team was going from Piton Pooper to...
The route wanders out left of the arch for some pr...
BETA PHOTO: The route wanders out left of the arch for some pr...

Comments on Upper Royal's Arch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Randy
Mar 2, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Actually, this route is usually done as an excellent way to finish off Piton Pooper. Instead of doing the easy second pitch (or upper part) of Piton Pooper, head up and left to a belay ledge. Then climb this fun, clean and quite exposed pitch which heads over the upper headwall.
By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 7, 2006

Yes - The Jam Crack (or better but a little harder, Dave's Deviation) combined with Piton Pooper and Upper Royal's Arch is a classic combo IMHO. I highly recommend it.
By David Wang
From: San Francisco, CA
May 22, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

liebacking the arch becomes difficult as the crack thins to mere finger tips. The easier way is to leave the crack as it thins and wander left onto the face. There are actually gear placements on the face.

5.8 as long as the leader is competent at finding the right path across the slab. Should you get overwhelmed by the exposure (like I did), look to the left and be thankful that you are not on the Vampire!
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Jun 3, 2012

Great finish for several link up variations. You can stay in the crack the whole way (a couple of PG moves @ 5.10). Good fun.
By Thomas Laursen
Jun 10, 2014

Wander left to the face (easy) once the crack becomes fingertips, but wander back as soon as the crack becomes fingers/hands again. Otherwise, straight up the face is runout on shity, hollow gear.

Sweet exposure and a suprisingly fun second overhang to finish!
By Ryan-G
From: San Diego
Aug 12, 2014

I thought this was one of the best moderate pitches on Tahquitz - thoughtful, great position, good rock, etc..I also thought it was pretty in your face. The last climbs I led were El Camino and Open Book, and I didn't find the cruxes more secure, nor much harder...maybe its the intervening fatherhood, or lack of topi, but I think most 5.8 leaders we'll be in for a ride..and hopefully not into the dihedral if you protected high before moving down and out onto the face. Great pitch!
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