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DescriptionThis wall is just past the far left end of the North Face. Getting ThereThe shortest approach is the North Face trail. If you aren’t familiar with the area, the best strategy may be to take the main approach trail up to Lunch Rock, then hike left along the base of the rock. From the base of the North Face, hike left. Just after you pass the last route (Northeast Farce), scramble left up a gully. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Northeast Buttress:
Last Grapes / Pink Drainpipe Exit 5.3 Trad, 3 pitches, 550 feet
Last Grapes 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
My Pink Half of the Drainpipe 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Featured Route For Upper Northeast Buttress
Last Grapes 5.8 CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Upper Northeast Buttress
A fun single pitch fingercrack, this thing would be as popular as P1 of Dave's Deviation if it was in a more accessible area. The book gives it 5.9, but I think that’s a bit soft compared to climbs in the area. Mostly good jams, a little thin at the top but you have the dihedral to work with at that point.Start on a face between My Pink Half of the Drainpipe and a right-facing dihedral on your left, where a couple of face moves leads to an obvious finger/hand crack with a bush in it 25 feet up. There’s a blocky se...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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