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Upper Northeast Buttress
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Last Grapes 
Last Grapes / Pink Drainpipe Exit 
My Pink Half of the Drainpipe 

Upper Northeast Buttress 


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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

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Upper NE Buttress

Description 

This wall is just past the far left end of the North Face.


Getting There 

The shortest approach is the North Face trail. If you aren’t familiar with the area, the best strategy may be to take the main approach trail up to Lunch Rock, then hike left along the base of the rock. From the base of the North Face, hike left. Just after you pass the last route (Northeast Farce), scramble left up a gully.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Northeast Buttress:
Last Grapes / Pink Drainpipe Exit   5.3     Trad, 3 pitches, 550 feet   
Last Grapes   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
My Pink Half of the Drainpipe   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Browse More Classics in Upper Northeast Buttress

Featured Route For Upper Northeast Buttress
The start of Last Grapes.  Head up the crack past the bushes.

Last Grapes 5.8  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Upper Northeast Buttress
A fun single pitch fingercrack, this thing would be as popular as P1 of Dave's Deviation if it was in a more accessible area. The book gives it 5.9, but I think that’s a bit soft compared to climbs in the area. Mostly good jams, a little thin at the top but you have the dihedral to work with at that point.Start on a face between My Pink Half of the Drainpipe and a right-facing dihedral on your left, where a couple of face moves leads to an obvious finger/hand crack with a bush in it 25 feet up. There’s a blocky se...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Comments on Upper Northeast Buttress Add Comment
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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 26, 2010

The scramble up is on the climbers' right of the routes. It goes up a blocky gulley. We roped up for the last little section where it gets more difficult.