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Upper Northeast Buttress

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Upper Northeast Buttress 

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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
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Upper NE Buttress


This wall is just past the far left end of the North Face.

Getting There 

The shortest approach is the North Face trail. If you arenít familiar with the area, the best strategy may be to take the main approach trail up to Lunch Rock, then hike left along the base of the rock. From the base of the North Face, hike left. Just after you pass the last route (Northeast Farce), scramble left up a gully.

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Northeast Buttress:
Last Grapes   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Upper Northeast Buttress

Featured Route For Upper Northeast Buttress
Pitch 3 of this route.  Aim for the dead tree in the top right of the photo.

Last Grapes / Pink Drainpipe Exit 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Upper Northeast Buttress
Why rappel back down from these routes when you can exit to the top? From the tree atop Last Grapes / Pink Drainpipe head up gully 40 feet and then traverse left under a roof and then up. After too much rope drag belay. Head straight up easy ground aiming for a large dead tree, shared with El Whampo finish.From here you have already begun the North Gully Descent. Probably does not take too much more time than rapelling back to your packs and although mellow it is quite enjoyable....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 26, 2010

The scramble up is on the climbers' right of the routes. It goes up a blocky gulley. We roped up for the last little section where it gets more difficult.