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DescriptionThis is where the longer, high quality routes exist. Steep walls with good rock. Be careful of the rap down the drainage. Getting ThereWalk past Middle Mother, the routes start in the drainage. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Mother's Buttress:
Sugi 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Lady Boy Show 5.8+ Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Unknown 5.9+ 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Questions and Answers 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Titus Groan 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet
3-D 5.11- Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Super Dyke 5.11 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Doppelgänger 5.11 Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II
Flight Without Wings 5.12 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 135 feet
Featured Route For Upper Mother's Buttress
Questions and Answers 5.10 CO : Grand Junction area : ... : Upper Mother's Buttress
This is one of the best climbs in the canyon. It is steep, sustained, and has excellent exposure.Pitch 1: 5.8, 120 feet. Start with a short lie back in a right-facing corner and gain good hands in the chimney. Continue up double cracks in the chimney with great jamming until you can exit right to a large ledge and belay.Pitch 2: 5.10, 150 feet. To the right of the belay is a beautiful, smooth wall with double thin cracks leading up to a roof. Traverse out onto the face and climb the twin crac...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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