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Clip a bolt and then launch into excellent 5.10 crack climbing that is right slanting offering up challenging locks and thin face for your feet. The crux is definitely the face climbing after the crack, but is well protected.
Climbs the leftmost of the 3 prominent parallel cracks on the Upper Walts face. Begins on top of ledge just left of large chimney where Mojave Queen starts. You can climb the chimney (haven't done this), climb the sporty route to the left of the chimney, or access via rappell after topping out on White Rain or Mojave Queen (preferable). 2 raps to the ground from the top with 60M rope. Anchors are to the left of the topout. See photo of all routes in Upper Walts Rocks for location.
Standard rack to #3 camalot. 3 bolts. Build an anchor.
|By Brian Prince|
From: morro bay, ca
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
I thought this route was just as good as mojave queen; it's just a little dirtier in the crack. Would totally be classic if cleaner. The rock on the face above is sweet.
The two routes are really easy to compare as they both (after the initial easy part of mojave queen) climb a right leaning crack/flake and then pull a steep bulge on crimps. The crack and the face bulge were both harder on this. The crack was still in the 5.10 range but the bulge was way hard. Miramontes says to go left at the bulge (not as steep) but there aren't really any holds out left and you kind of have to go straight up to clip the bolt anyway. Mojave queen has a good rest at the end of the crack too while you just have to go on this. Way rad
I'd rate White Rain 10+, Mojave Queen 11a/b and this 11c. I thought it was odd that all these routes were rated 11a... I suppose I should see how Drag Queen feels. It sure looks amazing