Warming up on cross eyed and blind
Amazing sport routes extending for miles up the northside of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.
Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.
Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
56 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Upper Meadow
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Meadow:
Featured Route For Upper Meadow
Push 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : First Buttress
This route is classic! It's worth coming to this crag for this route alone! Start by climbing up a blocky section of rock to reach the first bolt. From here, climb straight up making some tricky moves to reach the obvious hueco at the 4th bolt. Next, make a traverse right for about 6 feet to reach a vertical seam and eventually a really good stance. Continue up and then make a long easy traverse back left to clip the 5th bolt. It looks a bit run out, but it's a clean fall and the hard...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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