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Upper Meadow

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First Buttress 
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Upper Meadow  


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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013
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Warming up on cross eyed and blind

Description 

Amazing sport routes extending for miles up the northside of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.

Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.

Getting There 

Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

58 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',13],['5.11',15],['5.12',17],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Meadow:
Ben Dunne   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   First Buttress
King Lichen Me   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   Third Buttress
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   First Buttress
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   First Buttress
Supermoon   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Mr. Cute   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Third Buttress
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Third Buttress
Meathead   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Third Buttress
Vanished   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Third Buttress
Pistol Whip   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 70'   Second Buttress
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Third Buttress
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   First Buttress
Schneezal   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Second Buttress
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Third Buttress
Lamda   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   First Buttress
The Prow   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Third Buttress
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   First Buttress
Eye of Mordor   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, Chipped, 90'   First Buttress
Boomerang   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   First Buttress
Corner Pocket   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 90'   First Buttress
Browse More Classics in Upper Meadow

Featured Route For Upper Meadow
David Abbott going through the crux on Skull in Ho...

Skull In Hole 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Third Buttress
Start at the hueco with the skull and climb straight up on the right side of the arete, aiming for the nice rest and stance on the arete at the 3rd bolt. From here, using the holds on the lip of the overhang, traverse out right and eventually dyno to a great jug (crux). After clipping the 5th bolt, 1 more strenuous move puts you at a nice stance. From here, head to the arete and up to the shuts on easier terrain. This climb has really nice movement. It's mostly easier climbing except for a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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