Warming up on cross eyed and blind
Amazing sport routes extending for miles up the northside of the Meadow River for miles! It is a bit of a walk to get to First Buttress, but after that point, the cliffs keep coming at you fast. Most of the crags get afternoon sun. Some areas, such as First Buttress, stay dry in the rain.
Be aware that new routing is still very active in this area, so it may be a bit difficult to find the exact line you're looking for. Furthermore, many of the new routes tend to be, uhhh, "less discriminating" than those at the NRG (choss, squeeze jobs), so take heed! That said, there are still some insanely classic routes here.
Park along the Underwood Rd, just as you would for the Lower Meadow. After hiking through the redneck campspots, follow trails that trend left, until you are directly below the highway bridge. Walk under the bridge, and follow the four wheeler trail for 10-20 minutes to First Buttress, which is usually marked with an obvious cairn and trail to your left. To access Second and Third Buttresses, is is easier to walk up to First Buttress and then just follow the cliffline.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
56 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Upper Meadow
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Meadow:
Featured Route For Upper Meadow
Bittersweet 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Third Buttress
Bittersweet is a fun climb that is marred by a manufactured hold between the second and third bolts. Without the addition of this glued on rock the climb would probably be a really nasty 14- or it might not even be possible. Even with the addition of the stone this is still the location of the crux.Start with 15 feet of roof climbing on sculpted slopers. Clip the second bolt and then blitz the crux swing dyno. Take a really good rest at the third bolt before taking on a second easier crux. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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