Climb the huge right-facing corner. The first half of the climb has many big ledges and positive holds. The climb steepens midway up; gear in the thin hand crack while you find small edges for feet just right of the crack. Traverse left when you reach the roof, stuff some gear in the finger crack overhead, and commit to the crux highstep and lieback moves passing the roof. Keep going to the exit jugs on the ledge.
This, and Beginner's Hand Jam are the most popular 5.9s at the Playground, I think.
The Fingertip Lieback variation begins in the next thin crack to the right. It's rated 10d, and is a fun committing lieback which joins the Upper Left Roof route midway up. It's protectable with small nuts at its crux, then small cams.
You can also finish the route through the next crack to the right to exit the high roof. This is reachy and probably about 5.10+.
Toward the right side of the Playground, a prominent row of 3 high roofs way up high bars easy access to the top. Upper Left Roof follows the prominent right-facing corner that is below the leftmost of these roofs. This climb is the 2nd crack right of the splitter Beginners Hand Jam handcrack.
Rack of cams and nuts to 3", optional 4" cam.
A 2-bolt anchor for Upper Left Roof was re-installed, down on the ledge.
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
May 29, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
We pulled off the scary loose block under the roof today as it was starting to get pretty scary. This didn't appreciably change the difficulty of the climb; I think it is solid 5.9 with or without it.
|By Jason Hundhausen|
From: Bozeman, MT
May 30, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Great! Thanks for doing that.