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AlpenGlow (aka Upper Kueffler Road Boulders) Climbing
Routes in AlpenGlow (aka Upper Kueffler Road Boulders)
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Blue Lights, Pull Right V0 4 |
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Crack of the Head (V3 standing, V7/8? Sit) V2 5+ |
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Death by Sloping (?) (+ 3 other routes on same boulder) V4 6B |
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High Horse V1+ 5 |
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Jugs on a Slab!? V-easy 3 |
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No Room for Jugs V2 5+ |
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Nothing like a Mono - V6/7? V6-7 7A+ |
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Only Dihedrals Rule V2 5+ |
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Shark Fin V5 6C |
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Terror of the Heels V2 5+ |
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Warmup, The V0- 4- |
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Way Back West V4 6B |
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| Elevation: | 3,088 ft |
| GPS: |
45.67919, -122.06415 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 12,717 total · 104/month |
| Shared By: | Micah Klesick on Apr 16, 2014 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Access Issue: Access Closed - Private Road
Details
The word is that access is via a private road, and the owner has been kicking people out. They may even be unsavory rednecks ready to exercise their constitutional right to git you gone.
Description
As far as I know, there very few other boulder fields of this quality in the gorge area. The boulders are very clean, with minimal lichen and almost no loose rock. some of the landings definitely need some work, or a couple pads and a spotter. The boulders have a ton of friction, which can wear your fingers quickly if you're not careful. A lot of crimps, which can be pretty sharp. A wide variety of difficulty, from 20' Vb slabs, a 20' steep traverse, to a possible V10? roof route, as well as plenty of short crimpy routes. There are multiple big boulders, one of which is about 40' long, and 15' tall in spots with multiple lines and projects on it. So far there are about 10-15 lines developed, with room for at least 20+ more.
There are multiple good warms-ups, especially on the first big boulder you come to in the boulder field.
Boulders are on top of a hill in a clearing and get sunshine all day, so they dry out quickly. It can get windy though.
There are multiple good warms-ups, especially on the first big boulder you come to in the boulder field.
Boulders are on top of a hill in a clearing and get sunshine all day, so they dry out quickly. It can get windy though.
Getting There
Take Kueffler road across from Beacon Rock, and drive up the road for about 15 min. It is 5.7 miles to the parking pull-off. Road will turn to gravel about a 1/3 of the way up. Continue to stay on the main road. about 3/4 of the way to the boulders you will pass the old road to Jimmy Cliff. eventually you will come to a small pulloff (marked in the maps link below). Only room for about 3 vehicles. From there the boulders are directly above you, about a 5 min walk. There is a trail that has been cut to the boulders, but it can be a bit hard to find. Look for cut branches and a faint trail. The boulders are quite obvious on satellite image maps, so your phone GPS can help out there. But if you go straight up the hill, you will come to the boulders.
Link to Bing Maps to parking pullout.
Link to Bing Maps to parking pullout.
Sun Angles Details:
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Guidebooks (5)
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