This is a pretty good route. Both pitches were physical in nature, but in general, it was characterized by fairly strenous hand jamming and good finger torques. It is possible that some or all of this was done by another party a while ago as we did encounter (what looked like) a bail bolt and single biner at mid-height on the 1st pitch right next to bomer gear. The rock was not definitely Indian Creek quality but passable for solid, Monument, tower climbing. Tape is recomended as the jamming on the first pitch will turn your hands into a bloody mess.
P1: make a difficult move up through the Chinle to a good stance and the real start. Climb the strenous butt flare (5.10+) with decent jams up and into the rest of the climb which varies in and out the sizes from rattley fingers to tight fists. Climb all the way to the big ledge where a good anchor can be made on finger-sized gear. 5.10+, +/- 130'.
P2: climb the figer crack directly above the belay via fun yet though provoking 5.9 climbing. Get around the corner and go for 40-50' up the slab to the summit. 5.9, +/- 60-80'.
Descend via a single 70 meter to the notch between upper and middle then another single to the ground.
In the middle of the Southeast face of Upper Gypsy is a good looking hand and tight hand crack leading to a chinmey-like feature. Look for a bolt (placed by a previous party at an unknown time) where the crack widens out to a good chimney and stance.
Triples from yellow Metolius to #3 Camalot (C4), 2 #4 Camalots, nuts, long runners, and a single seventy meter rope.
On lead just past the 2nd crux.
|Comments on Upper Gypsy - DJ's Excellent Adventure