Upper Gibraltar and Toxic Waste Wall together provide a high concentration of quality sport climbs mostly in the 5.10 range. One can spend a half day and log 8 pitches, and still have time to hit happy hour downtown. The panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean make for one of the more aesthetic cragging areas along the Central Coast, so be sure to pack the camera. South-facing means sun all day. This is a great winter crag, and rather miserable in the summer. Watch for poison oak at the base of the routes and along the approach trail.
Approach as for Toxic Waste Wall. Continue uphill past the right right end of TW along a good climbers' trail, until it is possible to scramble up to the left. Negotiate a couple of bouldering moves and continue right along the base of the cliff. Allow 10 minutes or so from the car.
Browse More Classics in Upper Gibraltar
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Gibraltar:
The Crescent Direct 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Dazed and Confused 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet
The Gibbon 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
A Route Runs Through It 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet
The Soul 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Featured Route For Upper Gibraltar
A Route Runs Through It 5.10c CA : Central Coast : ... : Upper Gibraltar
Perhaps the best line on the wall. Start right of Dazed and Confused. A tricky start leads to easier climbing past several bolts. Pull through the steep roof (awesome!), and continue up vertical crimpfest and crux....[more] Browse More Classics in CA