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 ADVANCED
Pedestal Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All The Way T 
Angle of the Dangle T 
Assume the Position T,TR 
Beginning, The T,TR 
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 
Blow-up T,TR 
Chimney's End T,TR 
Condolences T 
Congratulations T,TR 
Creation Crack T 
D.L.F.A T 
Dog, The TR 
Dyslexia TR 
End Of The End, The TR 
End, The T,TR 
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 
F4 Ledges T 
Flake Route T,TR 
Golden Ledges T 
Hourglass T,TR 
Hourglass Direct TR 
Ironmongers T 
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 
Lethe T 
Lower Diagonal T,TR 
Modern Art TR 
Pedestal, The T,TR 
Pete's Lament TR 
Pine Box T 
Rich and Famous TR 
Sometime Crack T,TR 
Sometime Direct T 
Sometimes Left Side TR 
Sometimes Right T 
Stretcher, The TR 
Sweatshop T,TR 
Upper Diagonal T,TR 
Welfare Line TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Upper Diagonal 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rich Goldstone
Page Views: 9,638
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on May 5, 2002

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Kayte Knower midway on Upper D. Flake Route can be...

Description 

One of the best routes Devil's Lake has to offer. The name says it all. When facing the right side of Pedestal Buttress this route slices up and left from the dead tree at the base of Birch Tree Crack. Stay on the higher of the cracks, as the other is obviously Lower D. Good stopper from finger locks and at times insecure feet lead to a pleasant topout. Also easy to TR, but a swing is inevitable. Better to swing low than high. That's what she said.

Protection 

stoppers, small to medium cams


Photos of Upper Diagonal Slideshow Add Photo
G. Forge leading Upper D circa 2005
G. Forge leading Upper D circa 2005
Paul Wagener.
Paul Wagener.
Photo by Jeron Berman.
Photo by Jeron Berman.
Paul Wagener topping out on Upper Diagonal.
Paul Wagener topping out on Upper Diagonal.
Zach Borland takes the big ride.
Zach Borland takes the big ride.
Pete Vintoniv. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Pete Vintoniv. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Kayte Knower enthralled in the first crux of Upper D.
Kayte Knower enthralled in the first crux of Upper...
Kyle "The Whitesnake" Broadderick cruises through Upper Diagonal.
Kyle "The Whitesnake" Broadderick cruise...
Photo by Jeron Berman.
Photo by Jeron Berman.
Ryan on upper d , photo Luke Mouradian
Ryan on upper d , photo Luke Mouradian
Stylin' New climber Mike Cook, with some sort of spin effect on the lens. Jeron Berman with the photo credit.
Stylin' New climber Mike Cook, with some sort of s...
John having a little fun on Upper D.
John having a little fun on Upper D.
thought i should add an upper d picture to the archive.
thought i should add an upper d picture to the arc...
Masuo Gates classically cool on this classic route.
Masuo Gates classically cool on this classic route...
You can taste the camaraderie.  C. Treiber climbing Upper D with G. Forge on the belay.  One of the best days ever at Devil's Lake.
You can taste the camaraderie. C. Treiber climbin...
Climbing through the crux on Upper Diagonal 5.9 at Devil's Lake, WI.
Climbing through the crux on Upper Diagonal 5.9 at...
Upper D
Upper D
Topping out Upper D.
Topping out Upper D.
Burt Lindquist. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Burt Lindquist. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Leading Upper Diagonal. September, 2002.
Leading Upper Diagonal. September, 2002.
Brian Kelly on the last few moves of Upper Diagonal
Brian Kelly on the last few moves of Upper Diagona...
J. Hall resting on an arm jam halfway up Upper Diagonal.
J. Hall resting on an arm jam halfway up Upper Dia...
A beautiful climb.
A beautiful climb.
The lower portion of Upper D. when the tree was still there.
The lower portion of Upper D. when the tree was st...

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Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Upper Diagonal Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 8, 2013
By Anonymous
May 11, 2002

first lead : rich goldstone
By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Jun 30, 2002

First lead!! That's tight!
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 1, 2002

I tried out Upper D. last weekend. The thing I noticed about the route is how sustained it is. I did it on TR, so once I got to the top I had a nice scraping swing to the right. I now have a "strawberry" on my back to prove it.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jan 28, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Upper D is probably one of the safer leads in the Park. A few years ago, I took my first real wipper on it, a 25 footer (although the distance seems to grow with each passing year), and escaped unscathed. The first crux right off the ledge protects well with a #3 Camalot, and you have sufficient air under your feet and numerous chances to place gear at the second crux. Plus you can take advantage of a no-hands rest halfway up....there is no excuse not to get on it.
By Tim Stephens
Oct 12, 2003

You can avoid the 'strawberries' by setting the toprope anchor at the top/exit of Upper D. That way you won't get yanked off balance by the belayer taking up slack and you get a comfortable way to practice the exit mantle.
By Tye Gribb
Nov 11, 2006

Jay, I saw that whipper and 25 feet is not an exageration (#4 stopper, right?). You get cudos for not squealing. One of the hardest moves is getting into the crack off of the block. It is also the only place where the gear is somewhat suspect.

tye
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 2, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Yup Tye, it was a #4 stopper that was so welded, I had to rap down with a hammer to get it out.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 18, 2007

25 years ago my climbing mentor Tory Stempf was running a group climbing trip. It was only my second year climbing but I was helping him. He decided to do the diagonal on TR. He fell near the top. The anchor was too far right as it was for the route to the right. He swung into the pine tree driving a pinky sized dead branch into his calf. We helped him down to his car where he drove to the ER and had it pulled out. He was sore and limped a bit but was okay. Great climbing area. I still climb all the time.
By Ed Wright
Jun 5, 2007

I led this route one winter in the middle of a blizzard. When I find the photos I'll post them.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Sent on a beautiful February day, super classic! Can't wait to climb it again :)
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

would liek a lil beta on to where the no hands rest is on the climb? is it a knee bar?
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Yes Ryan, you get a kneebar in the alcove. You face right (toward The End) and put your left leg in.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 6, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

For the grade, I don't think it gets any better than this climb at the Lake. Absolutely solid gear and climbing all the way from top to bottom.
By Dan Plinska
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route is one of the best that Devil's Lake has to offer. Truly classic!
By Tradoholic
May 6, 2011

Cute, furry BAT in this thing today. He slept through all the ascents though.
By Jason Hall
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great, fun route. Easily protected from above. While working the first crux right above the ledge, my partner took a huge swing all the way around the face, spooking the people on the next buttress. Saw a bird's nest with a few chicks in it about 1/2 way up the route.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Were the chicks really smokin' hot?
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 25, 2012

So MdRock.... are ya saying even the climber that makes an effort to get your cam dis-lodged (with the expressed intention of returning it to it's rightful owner) but then FAILS will still be cursed or as you put it...."stricken with climbing karma"?
By Mikekd
From: Mammoth lakes, CA
Jul 7, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

No, if one would fail to "let me know" that you have dislodged it then he/she may be stricken with climbing karma.
But in all honesty, the gear is there, I left it, if you get it out more power to ya and you can hold on to your prize. Sadly, I'm not sure how many climbers out there follow the proper etiquette that you are implying.
By fx101
Oct 8, 2013

Really fun climb with an endless array of bomber placements all the way up. I have no idea how one of the previous commenters managed to get into a 25ft whipper here (assuming no gear popped out and he/she wasn't running it out). The kneebar halfway through lets you rest to your heart's content.

Don't toprope it... there's HUGE pendulum potential into trees. Given the plethora of bomber gear and clean fall line, there's really not a good reason to not lead it (even for a beginner).
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Oct 8, 2013

WRT 25-foot whippers, our Jay is capable of some amazing feats!