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Upper Devil's Playground

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbed Wire T 
Crack to Nowhere T 
Crackpod T 
Day of Wrath T 
Formicae S 
Gut Bomb 
Lois 
Meat Milkshake 
New Shoes T 
Panhandle , The T 
Sarah Palin's Drill T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Unsorted Routes:

Upper Devil's Playground  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.1683, -105.3429 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,208
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Justin Edl on Jun 4, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of southeast face of Limbo Rock.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the small dome to the east of Reynold's Hill, just a little ways off the Vedauwoo road.

Getting There 

If coming from I-80, drive down the Vedauwoo road for 3 miles after it turns to dirt, then turn left onto road 700N.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Devil's Playground:
Lois   V7 7A+     Boulder   
Formicae   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Upper Devil's Playground

Featured Route For Upper Devil's Playground
John pulling the lip on his problem.

New Shoes V4 6B  WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Devil's Playground
This is a body length offset tight hands splitter. Over the lip it turns into great hands, but it is suprisingly hard pulling over. Start on the one good hand at the back of the roof. Once over the lip, you can step off, or if you really want you can top out the boulder which gets really crumbly and licheny at the top. It was named because John had just gotten a new pair of shoes, and he tested them out on the FA of this problem....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Upper Devil's Playground Slideshow Add Photo
New graffiti from the road in, discerned by some as a poorly-painted swastika. Photo by JB.
BETA PHOTO: New graffiti from the road in, discerned by some a...
Not a swastika after all but a spray-painted Kokopelli with a hatchet. Photo by JB.
BETA PHOTO: Not a swastika after all but a spray-painted Kokop...

Comments on Upper Devil's Playground Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 18, 2012
By rob.calm
From: Loveland, Colorado
Nov 12, 2011
Upper Devil's Playground has generally been interpreted to mean the area above Muscle and Fitness. For many years the crag at the end of Rt. 700N has been called “Limbo Rock” (if anyone knows of other names for this crag, please post). This crag is in Upper Devils Playground but does not constitute the entire area. I first visited Limbo in August 1995. It had been climbed on at that time since two bolted routes (OBR in the photograph of Tunnel Vision) were in place on the crag’s prominent southeast facing slab. The bolts on these routes as well as the rappel station on top of the slab deteriorated over time. This summer (2011) Ben Boykin and I repaired the old rappel station and added a second station to its right (NE). We climbed three routes on the slab. Routes 1 and 3 in the photo for Tunnel Vision have probably been climbed before. Please post up if you know of earlier ascents.
By Justin Edl
Nov 18, 2011
Rob, when you named this rock Limbo Rock and posted a new and redundant area for it, is the first time I ever heard of this referred to as Limbo Rock. Your assertion that Limbo is the accepted name is flat out wrong. You and your crew might refer to it as such, but that hardly makes it its accepted name honored by years of use. I find it interesting that you would make such an assertion considering there are folks like me roaming around up at Vedauwoo MANY days every year who know MANY of the people who climb there regularly, and no one I know has ever heard of this referred to as Limbo Rock. The reason I feel the compulsion to say something about this is because you have a long and storied history of doing just this sort of thing, Rob, and I am utterly sick of hearing stories from climbers who were disrespected by you when you renamed their route or changed the name of an area that was already partially/mostly developed. I am going to give you the benefit of the doubt and assume that you meant no actual disrespect and only ask that this stuff stop. Also, in the next iteration of your guide, or just on this site, it would be beneficial for the historical record if you could please refer to the names you have used to replace other names as the "AKA" name, and use the original name for the area/route.
By Jay Anderson
Dec 6, 2011
Pretty sure Halfpenny referred to it as Limbo Rock, something over there was, anyway. But that was before your time, Justin, so I can see how you might have missed it.
By slim
Administrator
Dec 6, 2011
Jay, I don't think you understand. Justin is THE man on ALL matters concerning Vedauwoo. End of story. :)
By Jay Anderson
Dec 6, 2011
Si! Flocko! Es Verdad!

He assigns the Ved belay cards and hands out red tape right there by the Nautilus commode.
By Justin Edl
Jan 16, 2012
Right. And if you two don't get in line....
By Justin Edl
Jan 16, 2012
Also, Jay, you got a reference for that Halfpenny comment or are you just being your usual contrary self, making up facts in order to paint the situation what you want it to be? You regularly go out of your way to tinker with my life in a negative way, so without some kind of reference to back up that statement, I am just going to chock it up to complete BS. I imagine if Halfpenny did that, Rob would have used that fact to defend himself. Given that I would put his knowledge of the area against yours any day of the week, I am going with Halfpenny never said it.
By Jay Anderson
Feb 3, 2012
Why so defensive, Justin? I imagine a provincial area scholar such as yourself already knew this and has the same 1/2¢ guidebook I do. Do you need an ISBN#?

And, you did just make a pretty mean spirited, sweeping, accusation and personnal attack, on myself, do you have anything to back that up? Anything to tell my Wyoming lawyer?
By Justin Edl
Mar 20, 2012
Jay, I am glad I give your life purpose. What backs it up is your incessant negativity toward anything I contribute and also that people have told me on several occasions that you were trashing my reputation to anyone who would listen. I have never met you and the only communication I had with you before you turned into an asshole toward me was me trying to get you, one of the people whose climbing I greatly respected, try some of my boulders. Your overall behavior, not just to me but just in general, has caused me to lose ALL respect for you. Have your Wyoming lawyer call me up.
By Justin Edl
Mar 22, 2012
Also, an ISBN would be great. Make sure it refers to an actual book that is/was in publication and actually contains the information you claim. Also, is this really the way a man such as yourself deals with situations like this? Don't badasses like you knock heads and take names, not undermine reputations like high school girls?
By Justin Edl
Aug 13, 2012
Apparently, according to Rob Kelman, someone has taken it upon themselves to remove one of the anchors on one of the Rob's routes in this area and spray paint a swastica on the rock in its place. I hope that my comment did not inspire that, as that was not the point. The point of my comment was to tell Rob to quit exacerbating the situation in Vedauwoo by disrespecting local names and customs, not to elicit threats against him or attacks on routes he has put up. The greater point to that was building a community of mutual respect among locals, regulars, and visitors so that we could all get along. This action is unfortunately a step in the wrong direction. I respectfully request that the person who has done this go back there and clean up the mess they left. I also respectfully request that Rob not see this as representative of our community in any way, and also to understand that this is the kind of bitterness that I am talking about in my previous post. Can't we all just get along?
By Ben Boykin
From: Cheyenne, WY
Aug 18, 2012
Graffiti update: What to my eyes looked like a poorly-spray-painted swastika turns out to be a stenciled Kokopelli holding a hatchet. From the drive in to the crag, this blob of "artwork" is what my partner of the day & I saw (on 6 August). We could only associate it with symbols we are familiar with. When we found the OBR anchors vandalized, we checked other bolts at the crag & found them to be intact. I then mentioned the graffiti to Rob in email, so all of this excitement was generated by me & it's my fault for inadvertantly lighting up this fuse. I didn't go up to the top to investigate exactly what it is; Rob did, however (on 17 August). Sorry for the Red Alert.